Major service 308 GT4

**Jaimediego** · #1 06-04-2012, 02:57 PM

Do we need.. or is it best.. to use some type of sealer with the valve cover gaskets.. and cam seals (+crank seal) .. ?? If so, what type or brand.. ?

What type of oil is best (I'm sure there is a debate here between fossil.. and synthetic) for my 308 GT4? I've used Kendall 20/50 for years.. then Redline 20/50 synthetic.. but too expensive now. It seems my engine has always had problems keeping the oil INSIDE, so I don't really see a difference in seepage.. or increase with synthetic like I've heard.. . ??

The Transmission oil is 75/90 .. right? Any favorites there.. ? I think I've been using Redline?

Whaddayallthink?

Thanks, Jim

**BigTex** · #2 06-04-2012, 03:02 PM

If you could dig REAL deep into the engine assembly threads, you'd find the best gasket sealer is.........the one used for Honda motorcycles....LOL!

I use Royal Purple across the board, for everything from engine to door hinges.
You are right it's not cheap.

parkerfe · #3 06-04-2012, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaimediego

Do we need.. or is it best.. to use some type of sealer with the valve cover gaskets.. and cam seals (+crank seal) .. ?? If so, what type or brand.. ?

What type of oil is best (I'm sure there is a debate here between fossil.. and synthetic) for my 308 GT4? I've used Kendall 20/50 for years.. then Redline 20/50 synthetic.. but too expensive now. It seems my engine has always had problems keeping the oil INSIDE, so I don't really see a difference in seepage.. or increase with synthetic like I've heard.. . ??

The Transmission oil is 75/90 .. right? Any favorites there.. ? I think I've been using Redline?

Whaddayallthink?

Thanks, Jim

I use Brad Penn oil in my BB512i and have been well pleased. It is the original green oil formally known as Kendal GT. www.penngrade1.com

Mike Florio · #4 06-05-2012, 09:56 AM

I also use HondaBond, which is available at the Honda Car Dealership parts department. It's the best stuff I've found, but pretty expensive. Given the cost of the gaskets and the labor involved it's a cheap investment.

I've been using Castrol Syntec 20/50 for 20 years, and adding some ZDDP to replace the additives they now leave out. I recently decided to switch to Brad Penn, although I haven't changed it out yet. I got the oil at Summit Racing for a pretty good price.

**UroTrash** · #5 06-05-2012, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaimediego

don't really see a difference in seepage.. or increase with synthetic like I've heard.. . ??

The Transmission oil is 75/90 .. right? Any favorites there.. ?

I think a lot of Dino guys use SWEPCO 201 80/90 weight.

**Jaimediego** · #6 06-08-2012, 01:33 PM

OK!

Is Mobil 1 good.. a friend recommended. Do they have 20-50?

**Jaimediego** · #7 06-08-2012, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Florio

I also use HondaBond, which is available at the Honda Car Dealership parts department. It's the best stuff I've found, but pretty expensive. Given the cost of the gaskets and the labor involved it's a cheap investment.

I've been using Castrol Syntec 20/50 for 20 years, and adding some ZDDP to replace the additives they now leave out. I recently decided to switch to Brad Penn, although I haven't changed it out yet. I got the oil at Summit Racing for a pretty good price.

Would I use this on the cam and crank seals as well ?? .. or just on paper gaskets? :?:

The Honda Parts guy I talked to said it's like RTV.. They use it mainly where there is NO gasket! I once used RTV on the (308GT4) water pump.. The gasket slid out completely, sideways (probably too much torque, BUT!) .. YIKES! Is there a special technique for this slippery kinda sealer.. like 2-step torque or something?

Thanks, Jim

**brian.s** · #8 06-09-2012, 05:35 AM

Use only a little and allow to form a skin before assembly. Always torque fasteners correctly. No secret formula. No need on seals or o-rings, just a very small amount of silicone grease maybe.

**Jaimediego** · #9 06-11-2012, 06:53 PM

What about the distributor O-Ring on spline shaft? I was told to use RTV there by a Ferrari mechanic.. but that is in question, by my mechanic friend now.. .

Whaddayathink.. ?? RTV on the distributor O-Ring.. or DRY?

Thanks, Jim

Motob · #10 06-12-2012, 12:26 AM

You don't ever want to install an o-ring dry when it has to slide into something. You need to lube it with grease/oil/engine assembly lube. I don't like to use silicone sealer on any engine internals, if it comes loose, it will go down into the sump and then into the oil pickup.

**Jaimediego** · #11 06-12-2012, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motob

You don't ever want to install an o-ring dry when it has to slide into something. You need to lube it with grease/oil/engine assembly lube. I don't like to use silicone sealer on any engine internals, if it comes loose, it will go down into the sump and then into the oil pickup.

Well.. I dint mean dry.. literally.. .

BUT, good point about the silicone traveling around!

Thanks, Jim

**Jaimediego** · #12 06-12-2012, 06:03 PM

Heh.. Should I install new oil and gearbox PAN BOLTS when I put it back together.. ?
I saw a nice clean engine pictorial.. where the pan bolts had been "upgraded" to lock nuts.. Hmmm?

Thanks, Jim

**Brian Harper** · #13 06-14-2012, 01:14 AM

All of the pans I've dealt with had studs with nuts. Yours has bolts already or are you thinking of pulling the studs out?

kena · #14 06-14-2012, 01:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Harper

All of the pans I've dealt with had studs with nuts. Yours has bolts already or ((are you thinking of pulling the studs out?))

Recipe for disaster if you are IMHO

**Jaimediego** · #15 06-14-2012, 03:08 PM

SORRY Guys! I meant.. should I replace the old nuts.. with lock nuts? Ha!

**Jaimediego** · #16 06-14-2012, 08:11 PM

Are the studs generally long enough for lock nuts? How about leaving off the thin washers.. but use lock nuts instead (to insure enough stud length for lock action)? Wouldn't that be safer .. overall? Hmmm?

Thanks, Jim

**Brian Harper** · #17 06-14-2012, 10:34 PM

I don't think the standard nuts fall off and I don't think nylon lock nuts seal in oil that gets that far. What are you trying to solve by changing the nuts?

That said, I have used and would use again acorn nuts here because it keeps the ends of the studs clean and makes removal easier next time. But I don't think it is critical or important, etc.

**Sledge4.2** · #18 06-16-2012, 02:49 AM

I mount the cam cover gaskets dry, except for a matchtip size dab of hondabond at the locations shown in the pic. Clean all surfaces very well, torque to spec, slowly torquing each nut in rotation, and hold the cam seal lip in with two fingers while installing the cam covers so it doesnt pop out.

Geno

**Jaimediego** · #19 06-26-2012, 12:59 PM

I ended up using new washers and metal (Class C) lock nuts..
With HondaBond top & bottom..
Looks nice.. . We'll see

Jim

**Jaimediego** · #20 06-26-2012, 04:30 PM

In the middle of this "major service" .. .
I'm concerned about torque specs I've found.. or tried to convert .. SO please verify the following torque values:

Please QUOTE and correct any wrong values.. THANKS!

Ft-Lbs:

Cam cover nuts 6.5
Cam cap nuts 6.5
Oil/Gearbox pan nuts 6.5
Cam belt cover nuts 18
Tensioner adjust nut 48
Tensioner mount nuts 18
Cam pulley nuts 80
Crank pulley to crankshaft 145
Distributor to cam 80
Air pump pulley to cam 80

How about that spanner nut holding the air pump pulley on??? I made a tool to fit.. but still slipped.. SO, I had to use Vise-Grips and a hammer.. while pulley held between wood in the vise! Don't need that pulley mounted (smog exempt) .. but probably will mount so it looks right.

Thanks, Jim