Hello Fellow "F"-Chatters, I know, I know, I did an advanced archive search before asking this question.. I didn't have much luck on my search, although I know this subject has been covered many, many times before. I was wondering if anyone might have a blow-by-blow instruction(s) on how to replace the shift shaft "o" rings (and outside boot) with both the pans removed. I'm at the point where I actually have both the trans & engine pans off and am looking right at the shaft. If anyone could please give me any detailed instruction(s), pitcures would be great (that maybe asking for the world, I know), I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks in advance for the help! Chris.
No pics here but you m ust disconnect the shifter rod from the coupler at the trans, disconnect the linkage inside the gearbox and slide the shaft forward out of the case. I did mine out of car during other repairs but I hear you might have to jack up the engine or something to get clearance for the shaft moving forward but it is possible. Replace both o-rings and there is an updated double lip seal that you can get aftermarket to improve the sealing and have maybe a year without it leaking again.
Newman, do you know who manufactures the double lip seal? My seal is also leaking and will need replacement...definitely want the upgrade!
I got them from McMaster-Carr Seal is a #211 Part# 6540K151 @ $13.21 for 10 just go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and enter part#. I have not installed them yet, but have been told they work fine. Thanks to Kermit for this info. To remove the shaft, I did not need to disconnect it under the center console, just at the sump. I think the only way to know if you need to lift the engine or disconnect at the console is just to try it. The photos are obviously taken with the engine out, so this shaft removal/install was simple. i've also done it with the engine in the car, and that time the rear mounts were disconnected and the engine had to be slightly raised. In hind sight, maybe it can be done by disconnecting the shaft under the center console, and not messing with the mounts at all. Just try it out. To remove the seals after getting the shaft out of the way, just use a small pick as shown in the photo. Also- make sure the removed shaft is cleaned up with a scotch pad, and check for any burrs, nicks, etc. HTH Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks but maybe I should have mentioned I have an 86 328, will those seal work on My car as well? Sorry.... and thanks again!
Hey Gentlemen, I just wanted to thank you for your input and especially the pictures, avery big help! Thanks again! Chris.
Replaced the shifter shaft seal on my 328 -- thought I would post a few notes it is close to blow by blow: 1) Prior to starting the job, from the top remove the dipstick tube bolt from the timing belt cover, the torque rod? (see below) and the battery prior to jacking car-up. 2) Prior to removing dipstick and oil temp sending unit; use a spray cleaner in the area (prevents grime from entering hole after removal). 3) Engine probably does not have to be lifted-up. I disconnected the cat and slightly lifted engine, but not sure if this was needed. If you do want to lift engine be sure to disconnect torque rod from rear valve cover. On my car there was interference between the shifter rod (from shifter) and the shift shaft being removed from the engine. The fuel tank cross-over tube could be pushed out of the way to allow removal and refitting of the shaft. (it would be good to include the fuel tank sleeves with this procedure) The adjustment fitting does not have to be unloosened. 4) The shift shaft seal is a poor excuse for a seal; it looked like the OD of my seal was the weakest link; a stiffer seal may last longer, but a stifer seal would pronbably cause too much drag on the shaft? They say the 328 set-up is actually pretty good. 5) Dipstick fitting into the case was hard to access and the fitting is very tight. Tried Snap-on 6 Pt, 24mm socket and it would not clear the threaded nipple; 1 deep was unwieldy and could not get long ratchet on it. What worked well for me was a Craftsman 12 Pt 24mm, Std length socket with a extended-length Craftsman Flex ratchet. This ended-up being a very positive arrangement and the fitting just spun-out. 6) People have said this is an approx 9 hour jobthis is pretty accurate for a first time, but having the right tools for removing the dipstick fitting would probably knock-off 2 hours (and an unquantifiable gain in frustration relief). 7) It would be best to drain the oil out of both sumps at least a day before (a week would be preferable) the longer the better otherwise oil will keep dripping down of the gears, pickup tube, Etc. 8) Prior to removal of dipstick tubeput a mark on it (for clocking alignment), near where it fits to the block, to facilitate installation. It is difficult to move the tube around trying to get it in the right place when you are trying to reinstall it. Enjoy, Mark
Yea, didn't they change the seal from an o-ring to a square o-ring sometime during 1980 production year? Do you know why? The later seal does not seem to be much of an improvement as they go bad about the same length of time?????? Anybody tried retrofitting a better seal?
They did it to improve it, and it did. Maybe I have not had as much trouble with them as some. I think the later ones are good but not great. It seems to me that by the time the second seal has gone bad it's leaking in a bunch of other places too. I'm just not working on many 308/328 series cars anymore so I haven't gone to the trouble to find an alternative.
There seems to be a run on them going bad here in Austin. Done 5 or 6 in the past 3 months. Yea, you got that right usually with a bunch of other leaks too. 355s & 550s are more common than 308 service here too. Getting pretty good at R&Ring that little water hose underneath the Manifold of 550's without taking the manifold off.....
It may be that they are being produced by a new contractor. I have run into that many times on the older cars. No problem for years and years and all of the sudden a part just doesn't work anymore. Find out it is being made by a new company and isn't quite the same.
