Now it's my turn to suffer.... My 308 died on me while attending the Ottawa Exotic Car show. Here's the scenario: When I turn the ignition key, the car cranks, but no current is going to the fuel pump and accessories (window lifts, flashers, wipers); and the battery light does not go on. I tested the battery and it's fine. Any hints? Thanks
Yes -- those are the classic symptoms for the "bad connections in the rivet bars on the back of the fuse box" syndrome. The power to run everything on fuses #1, 2, and 3 comes in the single A (azure = light blue) wire attached to the top of fuse #2. The G (yellow) wire leaving the top of fuse #1 goes to run the ignition system and the GN (yellow/black) wire on top of fuse #3 goes to one side of the alternator warning light bulb: If the A wire goes +12V (relative to ground) with the key "on" -- you need to restore/add/replace a good (high-current capable) electrical connection between the top terminals of fuses #1, 2, and 3. If the A wire doesn't go +12V (relative to ground) with the key "on" -- you'd be looking upstream at the ignition switch, the 4-way power distribution block, and their connections. I got my "opportunity" to get to know this area after installing a higher amperage ignition system (which increased the current flowing into the azure wire on top of fuse #2 and out the yellow wire on top of fuse #1 and melted the whole upper left corner of the fuse box), but, even stock, the rivet connections get flaky with time.
Get Birdman's replacements. They are a bolt in replacement with more modern fuses. When you pull your old ones, you will be surprised how cracked up they are on the backside.
Steve, I just checked the terminal on the top of fuse no.2, and the plastic is indeed melted. I'm wondering if hot weather, hard driving, heavy-traffic-city driving, would have an impact on the electrical system.
Yes, all of those plus "time" (i.e., exposure to the moisture/pollutants/O2 in the atmosphere). The problem is that once a riveted connection developes even a slight resistance (like only 0.1 ohm) the I^2*R self-heating is huge because the current is so large -- this softens the plastic, which "loosens" the connection more, increasing the resistance further and raising the self-heating more, in a vicious cycle to destruction.
Steve, I don't know how to thank you. You've been informative, helfpul and enlightening. Cheers! Bernie PS Aa a sign of my gratitude, please accept this humble avatar. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just a few words to tell you folks that my 308 is up and running. Indeed the white fuse box was at fault. Steve (and the rest of you on F-Chat), thanks for all your help. Thanks go out to Helder Valente at Gentry Lane in Toronto for being quick and efficient..and of course for having the part readily available at a reasonable price. shameless plug: http://www.gentrylane.com/serv_1.htm
Glad you got it sorted out Bernie -- but based on your description of all the other electrical systems that also weren't working at the same time there wasn't much chance of it being anything else.
