77 GTB cam seals & Distributor install

You can take the front pulley's off, slide the old seal over the end of the cam, then slide the new on.

NP on the 5-8 dizzy. Set the flywheel mark so it lines up with 5_8TDH, then set the rotor so it points at the red tick mark under the cap for the 5-8 dizzy.

If the car runs rough, or you can't get it to the correct idle advance setting, then pull it out, move the rotor one spline, and try again.

Most people like to take the cams off b/c it easier to replace the valve shims this way, which is usually done with the 30K service.

EDIT: Since you have a '77, getting the front pulley's off can be a pain b/c the early cars had no hex "nut" machined into the cams so you could hold them while you unbolt the pulleys. Verrell told me to use a set of vice grips to hold the cams, then use an impact wrench to remove them. The only problem with that is you cannot get an impact gun on the rear exhaust bank b/c the shock tower is in the way.

 

Either method is OK (as long as the final result is OK-ish), but the front cam pulleys can be physically troublesome to remove/manipulate. Additionally, there's a high pressure oil seal (o-ring) at the cam pulley -to- camshaft mounting interface (and I can't recall if the mounting screw threads also need to be leak-proofed), but the "remove the cams" way avoids messing with this (if you're not leaking there now ).
Attached is a jpeg (from Peter R.) of the "red mark" on the distributor rim "under the cap" that Sean mentioned for the rotor positioning during the dist install. And you want to be sure that not only is the flywheel set near its TDC mark (or idle timing mark) for cylinder #5 when installing the 5-8 dist, but that also cylinder #5 is at the end of its compression stroke (i.e., both valves are fully closed). The usual method for getting ready to install the 5-8 dist is to set the flywheel to TDC (PM) for cylinder #1 when cylinder #1 is at the end of its compression stroke (you can look in the engine oil cap fill opening to confirm both valves on #1 are fully closed to confirm that you're at the end of the compression stroke for #1) and then rotate the crankshaft+flywheel another 90 deg clockwise (as viewed from the crank snout end) to the next occurrence of the 5/8 TDC (PM) mark -- this ensures that #5 is at the end of its compression stroke.
Good luck with the project...
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Better than vicegrips for 2V engines:

Leave the old belts on & tensioned.

Make up a set of wood clamps like the ones in this thread:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56702

Cut pieces of innertube or other rubber go around each cam before installing the clamps. Tighten the clamps as much as you can w/o breaking the wood.

Now you can spin the cam gear bolts off with an air wrench. You can definitely get all 4 bolts out.

Think I may have used a long 1/2" extension to get the rear bank off. Alternatively, you can pull the bolts out of the shock & take it out of your way.

Btw, anyone interested in buying a set of these clamps? I'm thinking about adding them to Unobtainium Supply's product line. Will probably line the clamping areas with a tough polyurethane rubber.

Nit: Only 1 'r' in Verell

 

Yes!

 

Darrell,
How soon do you need a set?

Send eMAIL to:
[email protected]

Subject: 2V Cam Locks

(Anyone else interested feel free to send me eMAIL also.)

Any suggestions as to a reasonable price for them?

 

As soon as I have a spare 10 hrs or so (!), I'm going to pull my dying water pump for a rebuild, and since the belts are only about 6 months away from being due for changing, I may as well change them at the same time. I've got many other things going on right now, so I'm not in a big hurry - some time in the next month or so would be fine. I figure it would take me at least a good hour or two to properly build one of those myself the first time, so I would be willing to pay about $40-$50/hr or so for the time I save by buying one ready-made from you. On the other hand, you've been such a huge help on this forum, I would most likely pay pretty much whatever you ask.

Email is on the way...

 

Didn't see the below post before I sent my last email.

I'm waiting for a Forstner bit I ordered from Harbor Freight last weekend to come in. Usually takes a couple of weeks to cross the continent(sigh).

Called Birdman. Neither of us remembered why we decided we had to do 2 of the locks. Definitely speeded up the process as could adj both tensioners at same time. Other economies.

Still think there was something more than efficiency to the decision.

Guess it could have had something to do with working at 11:00 PM in an unheated & uninsulated garage with it 10 degrees out. Maybe we did just opt for speed as our cojones were frozen & threatening to fall off!

BTW, where in TX are you? I grew up in Eastland,TX out Abilene way.

 

Just sent you email back also.

I'm currently just outside and west of Ft Worth, practically next door to Eastland! Grew up in Midland, next door to Eastland the other way.

Freezing cajones would definitely be worth having two.