Water pump rebuild | FerrariChat

Water pump rebuild

Discussion in '308/328' started by RGigante, Apr 4, 2012.

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  1. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #1 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Since I can't remember seeing a specific 308/328 water pump rebuild thread, here's one :)

    You should start by removing the pulley and the propeller. After that, you can remove the shaft by the pulley end (not from the propeller end!)

    This is how it looks after disassembly, in order:
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  2. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    Don't worry about the old seal (3rd from the right), you will need a new one anyway so just destroy it.

    You need a new water pump seal (from the usual supppliers), the lock tab for the propeller and two new bearings, SKF 6302-2RS1/C3.
    This is for the later type water pump, with bigger bearings. If you have the earlier type, you should convert it or buy a new one of the later type.

    While you're at it, and if you have a 328, inspect the water pump tensioner bearings (two side by side with a common case). If they need replacing, go buy two SKF 6002-2RSH/C3GJN
    For a 308 QV, they're the same. I'm not sure for a 308.
     
  3. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #3 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  4. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    John!
    Good stuff. thank you!
     
  5. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #5 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You can insert it by hand, but you'll need an adequately sized socked to press it into place. (sorry, forgot to register the size :) )
    I use a small amount of silicone to ensure good isolation.
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  6. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #6 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  7. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #7 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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    Now you can install the shaft in place. I usually do this together with the first bearing, the one that fits closest to the propeller side.
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  8. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #8 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  9. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #9 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  10. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #10 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  11. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #11 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  12. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    In this last picture you can see that I had already placed the new sealing ring in the propeller. This one is easy, you can do it by hand.
     
  13. RGigante

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    #13 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  14. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    #14 RGigante, Apr 4, 2012
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  15. stevel48

    stevel48 Formula 3

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    Have Mike C add this to the tech sticky. Worthy thread.
     
  16. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    Some people "run in" the pump using an electric drill connected to the shaft. I usually do it by hand when I already have the pulley in place.

    And that's about it! Get your new water pump gasket and place it in the engine.
    After the first time you run the engine up to temperature, let it cool down and re-tighten the water pump. Check for leaks!
     
  17. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    Thanks! You're welcome!
     
  18. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    Thanks! If it helps anyone, I'm happy :)
     
  19. bill brooks

    bill brooks F1 Veteran
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    rig,
    you did an excellent job of photo-documenting the process!

    this should become part of the 328 chronicles.

    next week i will have forgotten.

    next year, when mine's due, i'll ask... how was this done?
     
  20. jonesdds

    jonesdds Formula 3

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    It was suggested from a well respected Ferrari mechanic that replacement(with the OEM part) makes the most sense vs. rebuild. He used to repeatedly rebuild them but due to his experience he feels they fail earlier and earlier after each rebuilt. I believe his point was that one that's rebuilt a few 2-3 times will last but beyond that the time frame they last is not acceptable.

    I'm not sure how many times my '89 was rebuilt but it has 49K miles and it's been rebuilt at least twice, I assume a few more times than that. It was last rebuilt in Sept. 2006, but failed only at 4500 miles and just over 5 years(I know I don't drive enough!). Cooling system's been maintained(coolant drain/replace) three times including 2006(obviously then!) but still a premature failure, I'd think it would be more mileage then time when it's been serviced so often.

    I'm wondering what others have experienced with rebuilds and frequency of rebuilds as far as the pump lasting. I've been told a new "OEM" pump would have the plastic impellar which should improve longevity because of the reduced weight. I wondered if rebuilding with a plastic impellar might be a good solution versus the brass one. Anyone done this? Thoughts?

    I did end up going against the mechanics recommendation for a new one and had Flying Dutchman rebuild it. They have a 3 yr. warranty so I feel OK about it and it's easy to replace. Didn't like how they repainted the housing though, would have preferred they left the outside alone but didn't expect that.

    Interest to hear thoughts on this and thanks for the rebuild thread!
     
  21. RGigante

    RGigante F1 Rookie
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    There are basically two reasons for the pump failure: the seals fail or the bearings fail.
    If properly installed, the seal should last. My 328 water pump was rebuilt more than 7 years ago and 13.000Km and still doesn't show any leak. However, I can't tell you how many times it was rebuilt before.
    I know for a fact that the local Ferrari dealer also rebuilds them.

    Don't over tighten the belt. That will be hard on the bearings.

    I have no experience with the brass vs plastic impeller. The pumps I've rebuilt were all brass. That might mean something ...
     
  22. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    Agree completely. I've rebuilt a few hundred pumps. No premature failures with all having at least six years of running use. Most pump that are leaking have failure due to damaged seals; seals which were improperly installed to begin with. I have special tooling which insure that the seal is installed straight and flush with the housing. Also, many pumps I see have super cheap Chinese or "no-name" bearings installed; another cause for failure. Often times, there is corrosion under the seal area This scenario typically dictates a new pump. Note that not all rebuilds are as simple as posted above. Ferrari had four variations of this pump, one of which used a pretty funky one-piece seal design which poses its own rebuilding challenges.
     
  23. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    Dutchman uses a very high quality voodoo shaft seal (won't tell me what it is) which they need to modify the shaft a bit to fit, but it works very well. He also uses SKF ZZ low friction bearings, not two, but 3 of them. And for the $220ish price it's a no-brainer. The stock pump seal is decent when installed correctly and lasts well, but parts cost is nearing half what Dutchman wants. Personally, I just fronted the dough to Dutchman to have it done and for the warrantee alone it was worth it. Just my 2 Sheckles.
     
  24. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

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    I had the Dutchman rebuild mine back in 2003 and it's still leak free. Hopefully by sending this note it doesn't start leaking. LOL
     
  25. jonesdds

    jonesdds Formula 3

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    That was my thought process too. $220 vs. $750 or whatever the new one costs made more sense to be. The replica some are placing didn't interest me as i felt rebuild would potentially be better and still at a lower cost. We'll see what happens. I believe my seals failed as it still spun nicely. Really puked out a lot of coolant suddenly, no evidence of weeping a month prior when I was in there.

    Jeff
     

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