Problem tonigh with 90TR

My 90 TR did that to me a few times. However, the only wires that I had to jiggle and the only connectors that I had to pull and reset where the ones leading to the Fusebox. I got pretty good at it, and I made many connector replacements during that time. I remember one time driving home at night on the Pacific Coast Hwy. and the car started behaving as you described. I stopped at a Supermarket to buy plastic toothpicks to jam into the wire connectors of my fuse box to improve the connections on some of the wires so that I could make it home. As an electrical engineer I can tell you, I was really surprised to see the kind of connectors Ferrari used on TR's electronics. Nothing I would put on something that is moving and bouncing all the time.
As far as what you experienced, I never had issues with the wiring in the engine compartment, but it seems highly related to my previous experience. Glad to hear you made it home Ok!

 

My guess would be the "Y" Connector at the fuse box. (lower right white connector when facing the fuse box) Kinda sounds like fuel pumps not giving you enough "Go Juice". I forgot if yours was burnt or not. Take a look. That kinda happened to me too. It might just be cooling off the connector enough when you shut if off ...then when you turned it back on it somehow made a better connection???? What the heck do I know..i'm just guessing. Ever since I fixed my burnt "Y" connector it's been running great.

 

Do a search on "tyco C12" for threads about getting an AMP replacement connector (206837-1) -- you should be able to get the locking ring off the new connector (by destroying the rest of it) and snap it onto your old body, or, if you get the pin removal tool, you can move all your pins into the new connector.

 

See: Thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=184390

For a complete repair on this connector.

Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.

 

I have found them on Ebay. I buy 10 or 20 at a time but they are inexpensive.

 

Make a diagram AND take pictures. I have found subtle changes in wire color/positions between early and later cars.

 

Amen!

Here's what's shown in the 509/88 US TR wiring diagram, as far as pin number vs wire color, for C12 & C13, but I wouldn't believe it 100% until I knew that it matched an actual TR

Usually they'll at least mold a small #1 on the connector body itself near the #1 pin, but you might have to figure out the rest of who's who from the AMP connector drawing (and sometimes this is a little confusing if they aren't uber-clear about which end of the connector is being viewed -- and, IME, it's not uncommon for the schematic artist to mess this up).

With regard to the extraction tool, usually, it's just a simple hollow tube that you insert from the frontside of the connector body that compresses some tabs on the pin so that you can draw the wire & pin out the backside of the connector body (and before reinserting a pin you would pre-bend the little tabs outward) -- but please post photos/info/comments once you get to that part of the operation.
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Those hurt my eyes!

 

2nd Amen!

This is why I really think the (official) printed hardcopy of the schematics and wiring diagrams books has real value -- it's really nice to be able to actually read the numbers printed on the fuses (with a magnifying glass, of course ).

 

Thats is the correct way to do it. Make sure you start with the right number (there are tiny little numbers next to each hole). The just work your way back and forth across the connector on row at a time. I can do one in ten minutes. Look at my old post on how to do it, and you can see that once you slide the sheathing back and unscrew the back of the connector, there is a fair amount of room to work.

Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.

 

Hey thanks guys for posting the pics and how to on the connectors. I took mine out from under the r/rear fender well today to check th e Relay "C" and 10amp fuse. I found both of my connectors need changing so this thread helps a bunch.

I still need help w/ my 91 Testarossa.....(weeping)...
The car starts right up 1st turn of the key but will not idle now. I keep it running by giving it throttle and I can tell its not running very good cuz if I take my foot off the throttle it will eventually die after about 10 seconds. My problems seems to be moving around and being very irractic and intermittant.

sometimes it runs greaat
Sometimes it runs on 6 cylinders
sometimes it will idle great at 900rpms on 1st start and all day.
Sometimes it will die if I don't rev it on cold start.

This is what I have checked:
-Jumped the fuel pump relays #30 to #87 - I can hear them both hum. But if I take out the RH fuel pump fuse it will die immediately. LH one -when removed ran rougher, when replaced smoothed out.
-Checked relay "C" Rt/rear wheel well- 10amp fuse in tact but I hear a slight rattle in the relay if I shake it. ( is that normal?)
-Replaced the burnt connectors on the white "Y" connectors for the fuel pumps.


Not sure if this had anything to do with current problems
*my water temp gauge is intermittant and currently is not working at all. Just bought a new water temp sender (thermister part#104628) Have not installed it yet. Tried grounding the gauge at the 9 pin connector under the coolant tank (gray wire to ground) but gauge did not move or peg to full hot. Key was on 2nd click when I checked it. I'm not sure if thats a proper way to test the gauge or not. it's just very diffulcult to get to the thermister with all the pipes in the way.

Is there anything else I can test in the black box with relay "C". Should I buy another relay??
I haven't tried grounding the water thermoswitch yet ..not real sure how to do that one yet. Unplug red wire or orange wire and put it to ground while key on??? Then look for what result??
Car has no airpump on the car ..by the way.
Sorry for the long winded thread. Wanted you to know all the facts.

Help!

 

IMO, This is more an indication that your two banks are not well balanced -- i.e they are not contributing equal work. Have you confirmed that the vacuum level in each intake plenum is the same at idle?

Something rattling inside is not a good sign, but what do you mean by "checked"? What's important is that the voltage on (output) terminal 87 should always be +12V when the engine is running. IMO, you should confirm/deny if there is a correlation between the voltage on terminal 87 and your running behavior -- i.e., does good running = +12V and bad running = 0V, or is it always +12V for both good and bad running, or is it always 0V?

Unfortunately, a new thermister probably won't fix this. If you ground the grey wire and the gauge doesn't move to maximum (when the key is "on"), that can't be caused by a bad thermister.

Good -- because that isn't how this gizmo works. The red wire should always be +12V when the engine is running (this red wire is the same as terminal 87 on relay C). When cold, the thermoswitch is closed, which connects the red wire to the orange/black wire, and this runs things associated with cold-running -- the air pump clutch, it "tells" the injection ECUs "I'm cold", it enables the cold start injectors to squirt if you blip the throttle, etc.. When warm, the thermoswitch opens so there is no voltage on the orange/black wire. To confirm/deny if this gizmo is working, I'd measure the voltage on the orange/black wire -- it should be +12V during cold-running and 0V during warm-running.

PS Can you post a photo of your engine family marking? I've not heard of a F113AC? Do you have O2 sensors?

 

Nope, havnt checked the vaccuum level yet... I have no clue on how to do it either LOL..but willing to.
Only checked the relay by shaking it and checking to see if the fuse was blown. It was Still intact.
I'll have to read up and perform the 12 volt test

Sorry I left out 2 numbers! duh! F.113AC40 *26644*
Yes I have o2 sensors but no air pump on the car. Previous owner removed it.

Thanks for your help Steve. I really appreciate it! I'll check the things I can check and get back to you.

 

I like that a lot better -- but it really is F.113A040 = US version (perhaps that first "0" is just a little malformed/mis-stamped). Give a shout when you know more.

 

Thanks for the offer Robbie but I ordered a set last night from your great link. Nice find. That should be in the sticky section.

 

I certainly did! I'm still trying to figure out how to put the new ring on the old connector....probably won't do that but sure would be easier. I guess you must break off the old(easy-broke already) Smash up the new one to get the new ring off? Then slide the new ring onto the old connector somehow??

 

Any body got a picture of the starter solenoid terminal 30 and 15A is??? So I can jump them. Thanks!