Cheap wheel update, new Yellow hubcaps installed

These are those Voxx $108 wheels that Discount tire has. (I am the cheap guy that won't spend over $500 for a set of wheels, $6K for a bare metal strip/respray paint job or $9K for a motor rebuild.)

I ordered some centering wheel rings of approx the right size (56 X73.1, IIRC) and trimmed them slightly on my lathe to fit the Fcar hubs exactly, so the wheels are now hubcentric, and also made some adaptor rings for the Horsie hubcaps. The adaptors are retained by some allen bolts and little brackets once the hubcap is on teh wheel

The one pic is a little out of focus, but you can see the alum adaptors.

Doug
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Motor is easy.

New oversize pistons, rings, wrist pins and retainers: $1570

Complete gasket set, every gasket you will need for motor AND trans: $890

All new rod and main bearings: $356

Cam belts: $50

Bearings for can drive and tensioner: $245

New exhuast valves: $520 (2V motor)

Total parts: $3631. Add $1400 if you want your cams reprofiled

40 hours machine shop labor and shortblock and head reassembly @ $80/hr: $3200

You have to do things like reinstall motor in car. Your QV will cost you a grand or so more in parts.

Lots of places on the paint job, I use a guy in Mesa, AZ. He takes forever, (4 months for show quality, as he works on these special projects only 6-8 hours per week ), but is reasonable at $48/hr,a nd does excellent work. He is also a certified Ferrari bodyman.

I had him repair some rust on one of my doors, he made a whole new lower outer door skin panel from a piece of flat paint lock sheet steel, and he does not use bondo.

Find out who the street rod people use in your area, those guys are the ones that do the excellent work, are used to custom jobs, and unless they are working for rich celebs, are usually pretty reasonable in their rates.

Doug

 

Wheels compliment the car, they do not make the car.

Get your project finished and painted, and they will look wonderful on it.

Good luck,and happy body work!

Doug

 

You are building more than a basic rebuild and it will cost accordingly more.

I will PM the body shop info later tonight or tomorrow.

Don't tell him you found him thru FChat, as after I told him about the $22K paint jobs, he said he would only charge $20K for FChat people and he would kick back $5K to me for the referral.

Doug

 

They are same tire/wheel front and back.

I have 11 MM spacers for the rear, but haven't installed them yet. I got the lug bolts thru Discount tire at $2 each (as compared to a Ferrari lug bolt at $60 each). I will let you know front and rear bolt lengths, with and without rear spacers , as I will have to measure them.

Doug

 

Sure, I will take more pics once my longer wheel bolts show up next week so that I can install the 11MM rear spacers (Volvo 740) I bought and modified (change centering dimensions), and the rear yellow centercaps. Spacers are just to bring the rear wheels out a bit for better visual effect.

I went with 235/45-17 front and 245/45-17 rear, as I wasn't sure if 245's would fit up front, but it appears they will.

I believe the wheels I bought are the MG series Voxx. They had discontinued the 16" when i was shopping,and the 17" may follow, they have other styles. The 20MM offset works fine on the 8" wide wheels.

I went inexpensive on the tires also, Potenza G19 Grid, tires and wheels were about $1000 total.

Doug

 

There is about 1/4" clearance up front with the 235's, the 245's reduce that to about 1/8" at full lock (from memory of three months ago), I did check clearance on the drivers side, but didn't check on passengers side with the 245.

The rear uses 1.25" lug bolts (without the spacer) and provides about 5/8" thread engagement, The front uses 1.5" lug bolts and provided a bit over 1/2" thread engagement.

AS far as knowing, I borrowed some studs from teh local DT store and checked fit.

Doug

 

The wheels center fine on the bolt acorns. They always will. They have to, unless the bolt hole pattern is off. At least at normal driving and freeway speeds, I cannot comment about over 80 MPH, though my Corvette is fine with lug centering mount Cragars at 120 MPH.

I drove my F car for couple hundred miles before I added the centering rigs, no problems.

If you have flat faced bolts and corresponding flat face on the wheel (think some American made mag wheels), you need the hub centering.

That said, as I mentioned in an earlier post in this thread, I bought and modified some commercial wheel centering rigs to fit my hubs and wheels.

They make mount and dismount of the wheel a lot easier becuase the wheel isn't being supported by the bolt shanks when the bolts are being installed or removed.

 

Note how I added a lathe modified centering ring to a Volvo 740 wheel spacer for the rear wheels.

A corresponding ring will be added to the inside of the rear of the spacer to match the 308 hub.

The centering rings are press fit and epoxied to the spacer so there are never a bunch of loose parts to deal with.

Doug
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And if you don't mind plastic wheel centering rings,and are not going to use a wheel spacer, these should work with any wheel that is made for a 73MM hub.

http://www.justforwheels.com/index.jsp?ID=56.1&OD=73.1&sub=ringsresults&cat=hubcentric

Doug