348 Window Motor | FerrariChat

348 Window Motor

Discussion in '348/355' started by sparta49, Jul 24, 2004.

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  1. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #1 sparta49, Jul 24, 2004
    It looks like my pass. side window motor died on me today in the down position :( . I removed the motor and it looks like a standard Bosch part, anyway I found one on the net that looks like it might work for $70.00 the link is below: Incidently I went to Autozone to get a relay for the window and the guy behind the counter insisted on looking it up in his computer, well I told him it wasn't in there but if he must know it was out of a Ferrari, his response " who makes Ferrari , Ford? "

    http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=mt4510-00-001
     
  2. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    #2 Ricambi America, Jul 25, 2004

    If you purchase that motor, could you kindly keep us up-to-date with the fitment and operation? I'd love to spend <$200 for new windows!

    -Daniel
     
  3. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #3 sparta49, Jul 25, 2004
    daniel, I'm going to call them Monday and check the Bosch number on it, it looks identical to the one I took out of the car
     
  4. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #4 fatbillybob, Jul 25, 2004
    sparta49,

    Good find! how did you locate that? Anyway that company is in the city I work in. Maybe they have tips on how to cure the Ferrari slow motor problems with a slick rewire scheme. ASk them and post the results here.
     
  5. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #5 sparta49, Jul 25, 2004
    I don't think there is a rewire trick for the 308 series but this does look like the 348 motor which the 348 motors are lightening fast compared to the 308s
     
  6. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #6 sparta49, Jul 26, 2004
    daniel, I just checked with the company and the Bosch part numbers are identical I ordered one for each side as my drivers side is showing the same symptoms the pass. side did before dying completely. Total cost shipped over night for both motors was $185.46
     
  7. 348_Spiderman

    348_Spiderman Formula 3

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    #7 348_Spiderman, Jul 26, 2004
    I thought I was going to either have to replace my motor or wiring harness on my car, it ended up being the connector to the top of the motor. All I had to do was crimp it a little tighter and that solved the problem. The test would be to see how much resistance there is when unplugging the connector to the motor. If it virtually just pulls off with no effort at all, this may help.

    Let me know if this works for any of you. It seems a little suspicious that mine was also the passenger side window that was giving me problems.

    Mike
     
  8. bill365

    bill365 F1 Rookie

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    #8 bill365, Jul 26, 2004
    Besides the normal cleaning and lubing of the tracks and associated hardware,
    two methods of curing slow windows, that I have seen are, to clean the old grease out of the motor gearbox and replace with new (maybe synthetic) and mount relays in the doors with a heavy 12 volt feed directly to them, using the switches for control purposes only.

    The relay system will not only supply better power to the motor, it also extends the life of the switches by only running low power/current through them.

    Regards,
    Bill
     
  9. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #9 sparta49, Jul 26, 2004
    as Hawkeye said on MASH , " I studied dead and this motor is dead" I hooked it directly to a battery and it doesn't move at all either way. The plug was on fairly tight as well. It started needing a little assistance at first and then Sat. refused to move at all.
     
  10. 348_Spiderman

    348_Spiderman Formula 3

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    #10 348_Spiderman, Jul 26, 2004
    I must have missed the fact that you had hooked a battery up to it in your first post. I work in IT so I tend not to assume ANYTHING! :)

    I was just hoping that if others who haven't yet tried bypassing everything by hooking a battery up to the motor to test, wouldn't bypass an easy free fix before going out and buying new motors etc.

    Mike
     
  11. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #11 sparta49, Jul 27, 2004
    The motors arrived today they look identical however I will install them tonight and let everyone know how they work, both arrived shipped overnight for $184.90 from A1 Electric in Torrance CA
     
  12. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #12 sparta49, Jul 27, 2004
    that was for the pair including shipping
     
  13. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #13 sparta49, Jul 27, 2004
    The motors are a perfect fit , only now I have another problem, the motor will only roll down for some reason they won't reverse but the original one is doing the same thing, they are getting power to the wires on the motor but it will only spin one way I have 13. 4 volts at each wire (going to the motor) when the switch is pressed. Also when power is run directly to this style motor they won't turn either way does it ground through the switch ?
     
  14. airbarton

    airbarton Formula 3

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    #14 airbarton, Jul 30, 2004
    If I am not mistaken, I think it grounds through the motor itself. I am curious, you said the original motor was dead completely. How is it that it is doing the same as the new one? The reason I ask is I wonder if the motor is the problem at all. I am sure you have heard by now that the 348 door pin connectors are usually the problem with the windows in these cars. I had the same problem and just eliminated the connector. Now my windows are perfect.
     
  15. 348_Spiderman

    348_Spiderman Formula 3

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    #15 348_Spiderman, Jul 30, 2004
    In an earlier post:


     
  16. sparta49

    sparta49 F1 Veteran
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    #16 sparta49, Jul 30, 2004
    Ok so it's not "dead" It was merely sleeping :) No when I hooked it up to a battery I was expecting it to run but of course it did not. Soooooo , i thought it dead and buried it :) . Anyway I think it may be traced back to the drivers door pins, but the pass side did start moving up with the new motor about 6 inches and stopped but went back down, I thought the glass was misaligned and removed it but it did the same thing without the glass, now it has died completely again :( I'm considering selling it for a Corvette with crank windows and radio and a/c delete ) :) :) :)
     
  17. 348_Spiderman

    348_Spiderman Formula 3

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    #17 348_Spiderman, Jul 30, 2004
    Sparta, definately don't give up yet. I was getting really super frustrated with my passenger side window. I'd take off all the interior door panels, all of a sudden, it would start working again, I'd put it all together again, and I'd cycle it several times. Still works. I'd be so proud of my accomplishment, I'd go for a drive, the minute the car moved (just enough vibration, in my case, for the connector to work its self loose again) and whammo, the window was either stuck again with in the down position, or the up position. When I finally worked out what the problem was, it was a huge relief!!!

    Good luck, keep working at it, you'll get it, I'm sure of it!

    Mike
     
  18. airbarton

    airbarton Formula 3

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    #18 airbarton, Aug 2, 2004
    You could do what I did and just rewire the whole thing and eliminate the door connectors. They are usually the problem. My doors are hard wired now and they work fine. All you have to do is take it all apart, remove the connectors, pull the pins, drill out the holes, and run new wire from door to door. It only took me a day to redue the whole thing.
     
  19. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    #19 Ricambi America, Aug 2, 2004
    Charles -

    Do you have a pin/wiring diagram for the door connector? I'm wondering if there's an easy way to indentify which pins control which items (windows, speaker, marker light, etc)

    I've got the wiring diagram that's in the WSM, but I'm no rocket scientist.


    -Daniel
     
  20. airbarton

    airbarton Formula 3

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    #20 airbarton, Aug 3, 2004
    I have the same diagram. It's not difficult to trace out though. All you have to do is pull back the rubber boot on the connector itself and you can see where each wire goes. They are all color coded and the pins are numbered so you can see which male pin goes to which connector on the female side.
     

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