Ask Luigi Scala

[Universal Autosports]

UAS is happy to offer the members of this forum community help with any technical questions that might arise. Luigi Scala will be happy to offer his vast knowledge as a master Ferrari technician to all. Please feel free to put Luigi’s nearly three decades of experience to the test…so ask Luigi…

Bio: http://www.universalautosports.com/i...scala_bio.html
Interview: http://www.universalautosports.com/i...ews/scala.html

[Darolls]

Have a 1995 F355 Berlinetta showing an error code #3333. Supposedly this flash code doesn't exist, but it does! Does anyone know what it means????

[Luigi Scala]

What method did you use to get the code? The code "3333" does not exist on the normal DTC (Diagnostic trouble code) listing used by all OBD scanners.
However when there is NO code in the 355 on board diagnostics (with the button) then the car will give you a four digit code with ALL the digits being alike denoting that there is NOT a code stored in the system. We do not remember the exact number at the moment, but 3333 could mean no fault stored. With that said, WHY did you retreive a code in the first place?? Is there a check engine light on? Do you have any problems? What prompted this?
Let me know, Luigi

[mackb61]

Luigi,

On this dual lip Ferrari camshaft seal there are two directional “knurled” areas on the lips of the seal. The inner lip (wider one) is running one direction while the other, on the outer lip (skinny lip), is running the other direction. The surface that actually runs on the journal on the inner lip is smooth. What are they for? Does the skinny lip keep oil from exiting out the front of the seal by directing oil back into the center of the seal, while the larger one directs oil back behind the seal? Or do they, both wide and skinny “knurled” lips, just “hold” oil to lubricate the seal where it runs on the camshaft? Or is there another reason entirely? I notice aftermarket seals that I’ve used in the past, do not have any “knurled” lips. As you view the seal from the closed portion (outside) the camshaft turns clockwise. Obvously, viewing from the back (open portion) camshaft turns counter (anti) clockwise.

Also, on the OD of the seal, the Viton only coats half way across the metal skeleton. There is approximately 1/8” exposed metal. Why? This is the first seal I’ve seen manufactured this manner.

Thanks

[BuickLeviathan]

Originally Posted by Luigi Scala

What method did you use to get the code? The code "3333" does not exist on the normal DTC (Diagnostic trouble code) listing used by all OBD scanners.
However when there is NO code in the 355 on board diagnostics (with the button) then the car will give you a four digit code with ALL the digits being alike denoting that there is NOT a code stored in the system. We do not remember the exact number at the moment, but 3333 could mean no fault stored. With that said, WHY did you retreive a code in the first place?? Is there a check engine light on? Do you have any problems? What prompted this?
Let me know, Luigi

...if it helps, the "No codes stored" on the Motronic 2.7 is 4444, however the old 2.2 used 3333 as a "Fan test in progress, erasing memory".

The car in question just had its major service done, this code was not present before the service. 5-8 CEL comes on when driving, usually during deceleration.

...would it be a good idea to swap the ECU's and see if the code continues on 5-8?

[Luigi Scala]

Originally Posted by BuickLeviathan

...if it helps, the "No codes stored" on the Motronic 2.7 is 4444, however the old 2.2 used 3333 as a "Fan test in progress, erasing memory".

The car in question just had its major service done, this code was not present before the service. 5-8 CEL comes on when driving, usually during deceleration.

...would it be a good idea to swap the ECU's and see if the code continues on 5-8?

Leviathan,
Seeing as the rear cradle was removed for the major service, I would first go over every electrical connection and vacuum line behind the rear bulkhead. It sounds like something is loose or has bad contact. If all is good, then you can switch the ECU's side to side to see if that helps. When you swap the ECU's, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Then on start up, with EVERYTHING (electrical devices) off, run the engine at idle without touching the throttle for 10 minutes to reset the Motronic ECU parameters. Then test drive and see what happens. Let me know how you make out. Hope this helps.
Luigi

[Luigi Scala]

Originally Posted by mackb61

Luigi,

On this dual lip Ferrari camshaft seal there are two directional “knurled” areas on the lips of the seal. The inner lip (wider one) is running one direction while the other, on the outer lip (skinny lip), is running the other direction. The surface that actually runs on the journal on the inner lip is smooth. What are they for? Does the skinny lip keep oil from exiting out the front of the seal by directing oil back into the center of the seal, while the larger one directs oil back behind the seal? Or do they, both wide and skinny “knurled” lips, just “hold” oil to lubricate the seal where it runs on the camshaft? Or is there another reason entirely? I notice aftermarket seals that I’ve used in the past, do not have any “knurled” lips. As you view the seal from the closed portion (outside) the camshaft turns clockwise. Obvously, viewing from the back (open portion) camshaft turns counter (anti) clockwise.

Also, on the OD of the seal, the Viton only coats half way across the metal skeleton. There is approximately 1/8” exposed metal. Why? This is the first seal I’ve seen manufactured this manner.

Thanks

Mack, Very interesting question. We do not know exactly why the seals have the lines embossed in them. We have a few ideas, one that we can come up with is for strength, the lines acting as fingers to help the seal to not distort. These areas are outside of the oil, so they serve no purpose for lubrication. We have noticed that the lines go in opposing directions to the rotation of the camshafts. We have another hypothesis, since both inner and outer lips touch the surface of the cam, in effect there is an air pocket between the two lips. We surmise that the lines are there to feed air into that pocket. The outer lip has the lines going in opposition to the rotation direction, this could facilitate air being sucked in and forced against the inner seal putting inward pressure on the seal to help sealing. Remember the crankcase is pressurized as well putting outward force on the back of the seal.These are only our ideas, not the known answer, I hope it helps. As far as the Viton covering only going half way, the original seals had rubber all the way down and they are terribly difficult to remove and install new with out damage, these are updated seals.
Luigi

[mackb61]

Thanks Luigi. I guess the bottom line is: I would like to run aftermarket seals as they are $5.00 US each compared to $20.00 US each for the Ferrari yellow packaged ones. The seals I purchased aftermarket do not have the "lines". I do have both sets, Ferrari OEM and aftermarket, and I am really temped to use the aftermarket set. Maybe I'll be a test case for the use of aftermarket seals. Now, if I could only deduct it from my taxes. Thanks again.

[mackb61]

Originally Posted by mackb61

I do have both sets, Ferrari OEM and aftermarket, and I am really temped to use the aftermarket set.

Oops, got a typo. Tempted

[FUNRARI]

Here's the issue, ('96 F355 Spider), the dome light stays on in the "auto" position instead of turning off after 10 seconds of the doors closing... where is the relay located for this?

Thanks for helping out here on the forum, much appreciated!

[mouser57]

Luigi

I have a n 88 testaroosa euro and have the mechanical jetronic fuel injection. 2 times a year I get excessive fuel and black powder on the exhaust tips.
Question 1.) Any way of keeping them calibrated longer? or
Question 2.) A newer injection system? or
Question 3.) Is ther an aftermarket system available?

Thanks in advance

[Luigi Scala]

Originally Posted by FUNRARI

Here's the issue, ('96 F355 Spider), the dome light stays on in the "auto" position instead of turning off after 10 seconds of the doors closing... where is the relay located for this?

Thanks for helping out here on the forum, much appreciated!

Funrari,
After an hour search I cannot find the interior light timer either. I can tell you it is NOT the two black relay looking boxes under the dash on the drivers side, right next to the emergency hood release handle. It is also NOT the black relay on the right side under the dash next to the right hand hood release cable. I have poured over the service manual and even searched Ricambi to no avail. I do know that something is behind the foot fuse box on the passenger side, when I remove the fuse for the interior lights and door locks, I can hear two distinct clicks, so at least that warrants further investigation. I really do not want to pull apart a customers fuse panel, so you try to remove yours and see what you find. Keep me posted. Best of luck...
Kent

[Luigi Scala]

Originally Posted by mouser57

Luigi

I have a n 88 testaroosa euro and have the mechanical jetronic fuel injection. 2 times a year I get excessive fuel and black powder on the exhaust tips.
Question 1.) Any way of keeping them calibrated longer? or
Question 2.) A newer injection system? or
Question 3.) Is ther an aftermarket system available?

Thanks in advance

Mouser,
I would do two things, as long as the state of tune is correct (spark plugs,wires,cap/rotor,cam timing etc.) and there are no vacuum leaks. 1- Check that the mechanical arm on the plate for the Jetronic is not binding or has excessive resistance, it should move freely. 2-Have the CO set with a five gas analyzer (noting if the other emissions,HC,CO2,NOX are okay) to .08-1.0 with the Oxygen sensors disabled. If all else is correct, then the CO should stay at it's set point. Another issue to keep in mind is that these cars are very Rich on cold start, so if you start it alot and do not drive it to blow out the build up, it will blacken with soot. I hope this helps.
Luigi

[sayegh87]

Hey,

I am interested in finding out to remove the ecu from a Ferrari 599.

Thanks!

[Luigi Scala]

Originally Posted by sayegh87

Hey,

I am interested in finding out to remove the ecu from a Ferrari 599.

Thanks!

This is an easy one...
Both of the ECU's are located in the floor under the front seat floor mats (RH ECU on passenger side, LH ECU on drivers side). Remove the floor mats and there is a panel with 4 screws, open the panel and you will see the ECU. Make certain that ALL power is OFF when you disconnect (the battery can be connected, but the key is out of the ignition.)
If you remove them you will have to reset the parameters, so start the car, let it idle for 10 minutes with nothing on and do not touch the throttle. I hope this helps!

[mouser57]

Originally Posted by Luigi Scala

Mouser,
I would do two things, as long as the state of tune is correct (spark plugs,wires,cap/rotor,cam timing etc.) and there are no vacuum leaks. 1- Check that the mechanical arm on the plate for the Jetronic is not binding or has excessive resistance, it should move freely. 2-Have the CO set with a five gas analyzer (noting if the other emissions,HC,CO2,NOX are okay) to .08-1.0 with the Oxygen sensors disabled. If all else is correct, then the CO should stay at it's set point. Another issue to keep in mind is that these cars are very Rich on cold start, so if you start it alot and do not drive it to blow out the build up, it will blacken with soot. I hope this helps.
Luigi

Luigi
Thanks I will give the reference to the shop that I will take it to. I do a good warm up before driving.

[FUNRARI]

Originally Posted by Luigi Scala

Funrari,
After an hour search I cannot find the interior light timer either. I can tell you it is NOT the two black relay looking boxes under the dash on the drivers side, right next to the emergency hood release handle. It is also NOT the black relay on the right side under the dash next to the right hand hood release cable. I have poured over the service manual and even searched Ricambi to no avail. I do know that something is behind the foot fuse box on the passenger side, when I remove the fuse for the interior lights and door locks, I can hear two distinct clicks, so at least that warrants further investigation. I really do not want to pull apart a customers fuse panel, so you try to remove yours and see what you find. Keep me posted. Best of luck...
Kent

Thanks for checking into this, I will save this as a winter project if I get bored one night! I will let you know what I find.

[cove26]

Luigi,

Looking into buying a 355. Found a 1995 with the manual gearbox as opposed to the F1. What are the main areas of concern with the 1995 model and what is there to look for before purchasing?

Thanks

Mike

[Luigi Scala]

C26,
The first things to check are the obvious, the interior and exterior conditions. How well it runs and drives, are there any noises or rattles. Does it smoke from the exhaust, are there any lights on the dash illuminated, is the A/C cold, etc.etc.
Pay close attention to the panel fit and gaps of the doors, hood, bonnet and bumpers. Make certain the paint matches all around the car (get a paint meter if you can), if not there was body damage along the way, if all is correct there still could have been work performed, but it was probably a good job.
These are great preliminary indicators of the car's overall condition, if someone cared enough to keep the car clean and cosmetically up to par, then they most likely upkept the maintenance and repairs.
The next thing is make certain everything operates as designed and there are no predictable repairs on the horizon. Once you start to inspect the car mechanically, look for leaking exhaust manifolds (if they leak, MOST likely they are cracked and in need of replacement, new ones are about $7 grand, aftermarket are about $3500., without labor costs). Look at the axle boots for cracking, if they split they spew grease all over the transmission. A compression test and leak down test to verify the integrity of the engine sealing capability. Obtain and comb over the maintenance and service records carefully, make certain the major service was completed every 3 years or 15k miles. Look for pattern repairs, this is an indicator of existing problems. If the mileage is 15k or above, look to see if the Bronze valve guides in the cylinder heads were replaced with steel ones, if not the you likely will be doing this repair on your dime, and it is not cheap.
Lastly, check the interior panels for sticking, if they are sticking then they have to be refurbished or replaced and that can run over a grand as well.
Best of luck on your purchase, Luigi and Kent

[Skipper]

Originally Posted by cove26

Luigi,

Looking into buying a 355. Found a 1995 with the manual gearbox as opposed to the F1. What are the main areas of concern with the 1995 model and what is there to look for before purchasing?

Thanks

Mike

Mike-
your inbox is too full i cannot email you back - i live in cleveland ohio