Ask Kent Woodworth

[Universal Autosports]

UAS is happy to offer the members of this forum community help with any technical questions that might arise. Kent Woodworth is a factory trained and certified Ferrari and Maserati technician and an expert in electrical trouble shooting. His help and intuitive tips can be most useful when you are in a jam, so please don’t hesitate…so ask Kent…..

Bio: http://www.universalautosports.com/i.../kent_bio.html
Interview: http://www.universalautosports.com/interviews/kent.html

[fatbillybob]

Kent,

My 2000 550 is going to become more of a track car than a streetcar. I'm racing a Z06 in SCCA now and can't take putting around on the street in the 550 with all that horsepower trying to bust loose. So the 550 will become a dual use car heavy on the track side of things. I need to do three things:


1) On F550's if I delete the suspension ECU will the MIL light come on? If this light comes on can is be turned off with the SD2/3 so I can run future 2 way adjustable shocks?

2) Is there an easy way to set-up or wire the ASR to be in the "off mode" when F550 is started up so I don't have to hit the switch and watch the dash warn me about it all day? Or can I disable the ASR completely with say a fuse pulling but what would I do about the MIL?

3) How do I get the factory alarm completely out of the car so the car will still start? I know where all the hard parts of the alarm are just not how to deal with the motronic ECU looking for a removed alarm ECU. This last question please answer by private message so that Ferrari thieves don't learn how to steal Ferraris.


Thanks!

[Luigi Scala]

FBB, first I would like to congratulate you in your quest to track the 550! Prodrive was hugely successfull with the 550 GT program.

1- As far as disconnecting the suspension ECU, you should not get a Check engine light if it is unplugged.The warning light will illuminate, so try just unplugging the ECU and see what happens. There is the option of leaving the suspension electical system intact and just not connecting the shocks as well, there will be a warning light on.
2- First and foremost I would NOT disable the ASR at all. It can be your ally when needed, (inclement weather, new track, new tires, lead foot, etc.) and save your ass and wallet in the event of a loss of grip (horsepower busting loose). I do believe that if it is disabled by means other than the switch, there will be a warning light on anyway.
3- PM will be sent regarding alarm.

The problem with all three of these issues is that all of the inter related signals go through the CAN ECU, which is an early version of a Body control module that lets all the ECU's communicate with each other. In the event of a loss of signals the CAN with light up the corresponding warning light on the dash.

I will research all of these further. Hope this helps for now---Kent

[Woodworth]

FBB,
PM sent.
Kent

[JalanJalan]

Hi Kent, was told to try this question on you from the maserati life forum:

re: maserati 2004 cambiocorsa coupe

I recently had all the melted buttons on my center console control panel redone by Robbie at stickynomore.com. This required removing the small video screen unit and the metal panel underneath where the a/c and various buttons are ie: sport, hazard light, etc. I carefully dissected the control boxes, sent off the buttons, replaced them and reassembled everything.

Everything works except the a/c blower motor. Here the other findings:
when you turn the a/c control knobs, the vent control and temperature control knobs function and it shows up on the video screen, the compressor kicks in. When I adjust the fan control knob, the screen shows the fan speeding up and slowing down depending upon the position of the knob, but no air blows, even on "max" bypassing any resistors.

I have turned the main battery switch off for a few moments and then on again. Both fuses labeled a/c (I think 5 and 45) are good.

I have already sort of decided I have to R & R that panel again, but:

I was hoping that you could help me find out where the blower motor is/how to run 12 v directly to it to trouble test it. If it blows, then either I buggered the three knob controller or I just have a loose connection. I do find it hard to comprehend however how the fan knob can send a signal to the video screen showing its position and the fan speed, but yet not activate the motor itself unless it just happened to pick now to blow out. Any ideas?

Of course I truly appreciate any insight you can shed on this problem.

JJ

original thread at ML: http://maseratilife.com/forums/showt...ed=1#post66953

[JalanJalan]

Never mind, and sorry to clutter your thread. Apparently one of the connectors to the a/c control panel was either not snapped in all the way, or came loosed during the initial reassembly. popped it back in and a/c blower fired right up. I would delete my post as a bother, but maybe someone else might have the same thing happen to them.

JJ

[Pantdino]

I realize oil type is a hotly debated issue, but what weight do you recommend for a 1972 246GTB with about 8,000 miles since engine rebuild?

20 yrs ago I used to use 20-50 petroleum oil but have since switched to Rotella T synthetic 5W40 because I read that the Shell oil recommended by the factory back then was more like 10-40 in wt than 20-50. (I have not had trouble with excessive leakage.)

I drive the car once a month and never in such a way that the oil would be overheated. So I figure that good flow at startup is more important than higher viscosity at high temps, which I never achieve.

Thanks for your advice.

Jim

[Woodworth]

Jim,
I tend to agree with you, older viscosities were questionable. I think the Rotella 5w40 will suffice without problem. I hope this helps.
Kent

[fatbillybob]

Hi Kent,

The back of the F550 dash pod shows these 3 connectors labeled as in the picture from the manual.

1) Can I assume that Plug A3 is 12V+ power to the dash pod lights?

2) B10 that says bilstein is power to light up the suspension malfunction lamp on the "multi-function display" so that if I cut this wire the light will go off?

Thanks!

[Woodworth]

FBB,
I would assume that A3 is instrument (gauges) POWER +.
I think that B6 and B7 are the power (+15=key on, +30=hot at all times) for the cluster lights, since all the lights are in this connector.
I would assume you are correct in the B10 being the Bilstein or suspension input, so disconnecting this wire possibly could keep the light out. Try to cut the wire and simply see what happens.
I hope this helps, keep us posted on your progress.

[fioran0]

hi kent,
following on from my post on the 360 forum regarding my quest to decouple the stiffening of the shocks from the sports mode on a 360 modena. have you seen this done or do you have wiring diagrams to make sense of what should be done.

ive seen a few members do this, especially on the 430s and one had ferrari do it on his 360 by putting a toggle switch into the circuit. this broke the connection to the shocks from the sport switch and enabled them to be set firm or soft while in sports mode. the use of a simple toggle switch suggests that a break on one wire is enough to achieve this. following this train of thought would suggest that a break from a feed from the sports switch is where its done.

the system as it is just now isnt very practical. theres many times one wants the function of sports mode but not the stiffer setting for the shocks, a bumpy surface being the obvious one.

any thoughts you have on this would be most welcome. i asked my main dealer but they werent receptive in trying to help initially sadly.
i

[FandLcars]

Hello Kent - I hope this more general troubleshooting topic is OK to ask about. '92 348 with 2.7 Motronic. After a WOT 1-2 shift onto the freeway, I later noticed when I exited the freeway that my car stalled each time I stopped at a light. Temps OK per gauges. Never a stalling problem before.

Common solution in Fchat references such as my348.com is to loosen idle air adjustment screws 1 turn each. Has helped several owners per Fchat posts. Did not help me... cold car warmed up OK after ECU reset, but as soon as I blipped the throttle after warm, car stalled off throttle. I have not checked ECU codes, but no steady slowdown or CELs during this time.

Can you advise on what most likely problem areas may be to check next? I was thinking of cleaning idle air passages or trying to check idle air "motors". Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

[Woodworth]

Originally Posted by FandLcars

Hello Kent - I hope this more general troubleshooting topic is OK to ask about. '92 348 with 2.7 Motronic. After a WOT 1-2 shift onto the freeway, I later noticed when I exited the freeway that my car stalled each time I stopped at a light. Temps OK per gauges. Never a stalling problem before.

Common solution in Fchat references such as my348.com is to loosen idle air adjustment screws 1 turn each. Has helped several owners per Fchat posts. Did not help me... cold car warmed up OK after ECU reset, but as soon as I blipped the throttle after warm, car stalled off throttle. I have not checked ECU codes, but no steady slowdown or CELs during this time.

Can you advise on what most likely problem areas may be to check next? I was thinking of cleaning idle air passages or trying to check idle air "motors". Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

First thing I would do is to remove the throttle body and inspect for contamination and build up causing the butterfly to stick or bind. Next I would check the passage to the idle air valve and inside the valve for build up as well. You can safely clean both of them with a good brake cleaner and compressed air. Also check that the air valve opens and closes when energized (look inside while the ignition is turned on). Other than that, I would search for any vacuum leaks and engine diagnostic trouble codes. I hope this helps, let me know how you make out.

[Woodworth]

Originally Posted by fioran0

hi kent,
following on from my post on the 360 forum regarding my quest to decouple the stiffening of the shocks from the sports mode on a 360 modena. have you seen this done or do you have wiring diagrams to make sense of what should be done.

ive seen a few members do this, especially on the 430s and one had ferrari do it on his 360 by putting a toggle switch into the circuit. this broke the connection to the shocks from the sport switch and enabled them to be set firm or soft while in sports mode. the use of a simple toggle switch suggests that a break on one wire is enough to achieve this. following this train of thought would suggest that a break from a feed from the sports switch is where its done.

the system as it is just now isnt very practical. theres many times one wants the function of sports mode but not the stiffer setting for the shocks, a bumpy surface being the obvious one.

any thoughts you have on this would be most welcome. i asked my main dealer but they werent receptive in trying to help initially sadly.
i

I am checking the wiring diagrams to see the viabilty and options to convert this. I will post a summary when I complete my search.

[FandLcars]

Originally Posted by Woodworth

First thing I would do is to remove the throttle body and inspect for contamination and build up causing the butterfly to stick or bind. Next I would check the passage to the idle air valve and inside the valve for build up as well. You can safely clean both of them with a good brake cleaner and compressed air. Also check that the air valve opens and closes when energized (look inside while the ignition is turned on). Other than that, I would search for any vacuum leaks and engine diagnostic trouble codes. I hope this helps, let me know how you make out.

Thanks Kent. I was leaning along those lines. Luckily my ECUs both show 4444 (no codes). I was thinking perhaps the mid-range air compensation valve (I think it's called), could cause problems if stuck open. I'll report back when I can check things.

[BLAMPEE]

Kent, I have owned my 1999 F355 F1 Spider for a little over a year. After 1200 miles of ownership I got 2 CEL Codes: P1130 & P1119. The tech I used to take my car to "tested and found leak at front of manifold and also a broken vacuum line. Replaced line and re-sealed leak," according to the RO.

Code came back 3000 miles later and I took the car in for an engine-out 30k. I took the car to my new mechanic who was factory-trained on the 355 as he worked for Ferrari for 17 years. He did the 30k and I put in new Hyper-Flow Cats, Quicksilver exhaust, and had the OEM headers rebuilt by QV London.

Code P1130 came back on 20 miles after service but went away after about 10 minutes of driving.

Code P1130 came BACK (ughhhhh, right?) on last week and I took it down and my mechanic hooked it up to his machine (NOT an SD) and told me that it looks like the long-term air/fuel ratio was at almost double the % that all the other parameters were at. I am describing this as best as I can as I know very little about cars.

He said that since the short-term mixture was showing fine he couldn't diagnose the problem. He said that the ECU will compensate for this discrepency and the car is driveable. He ran multiple tests but could not find any leaks.

He told me that he did not remember what code P1130 is, as a Ferrari-specific code, and was unable to get it from Ferrari. He recommended to take the car into the dealer to see if the SD computer can locate the exact problem since all his diagnostic tests weren't showing a problem, save the test showing the long-term mixture was high.

Do you know what code P1130 is? If not, is it something that the SD computer can pinpoint so he can correct the problem? He retired from Ferrari in the late 90s so he has little experience with the newer technologies. However, he and his lead mechanic at his shop are capable and honest. His lead mechanic worked for Ferrari for many years, too. They successfully diagnosed and corrected a problem with the convertible top microswitches having a bad ground. Normally, the top requires an SD computer from what I've heard...

I appreciate any info you have on DTC P1130

[Luigi Scala]

Originally Posted by BLAMPEE

Kent, I have owned my 1999 F355 F1 Spider for a little over a year. After 1200 miles of ownership I got 2 CEL Codes: P1130 & P1119. The tech I used to take my car to "tested and found leak at front of manifold and also a broken vacuum line. Replaced line and re-sealed leak," according to the RO.

Code came back 3000 miles later and I took the car in for an engine-out 30k. I took the car to my new mechanic who was factory-trained on the 355 as he worked for Ferrari for 17 years. He did the 30k and I put in new Hyper-Flow Cats, Quicksilver exhaust, and had the OEM headers rebuilt by QV London.

Code P1130 came back on 20 miles after service but went away after about 10 minutes of driving.

Code P1130 came BACK (ughhhhh, right?) on last week and I took it down and my mechanic hooked it up to his machine (NOT an SD) and told me that it looks like the long-term air/fuel ratio was at almost double the % that all the other parameters were at. I am describing this as best as I can as I know very little about cars.

He said that since the short-term mixture was showing fine he couldn't diagnose the problem. He said that the ECU will compensate for this discrepency and the car is driveable. He ran multiple tests but could not find any leaks.

He told me that he did not remember what code P1130 is, as a Ferrari-specific code, and was unable to get it from Ferrari. He recommended to take the car into the dealer to see if the SD computer can locate the exact problem since all his diagnostic tests weren't showing a problem, save the test showing the long-term mixture was high.

Do you know what code P1130 is? If not, is it something that the SD computer can pinpoint so he can correct the problem? He retired from Ferrari in the late 90s so he has little experience with the newer technologies. However, he and his lead mechanic at his shop are capable and honest. His lead mechanic worked for Ferrari for many years, too. They successfully diagnosed and corrected a problem with the convertible top microswitches having a bad ground. Normally, the top requires an SD computer from what I've heard...

I appreciate any info you have on DTC P1130

The good news here is that your mechanic is correct in his assumption of the long term fuel trim being the problem. P1130-LONG TERM FUEL MULTIPLCATIVE (BANK 2)- SYSTEM TOO LEAN (MAX). This means in laymens terms that the drivers side of the engine is and has been running way too lean (too much air in the combustion mixture) and the engine management cannot correct the mixture by adding fuel.
We have three schools of thought to process... One being that there is simply an air leak (and or vacuum leak) somewhere,letting unmetered air into the exhaust stream. This could be from a broken vacuum line, a bad intake manifold gasket, a leak from the exhaust manifold etc.etc. The second is that there is not enough fuel being delivered for the amount of air going through the air flow meter into the engine. So no matter how hard the ECU tries to compensate with added fuel, it never has enough. The third being the sensor values validity. It is possible that the air flow meter and or oxygen sensors are giving false or skewed information to the ECU.
With all that said, I would first look very closely at the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, remove it and check for cracks holes etc..These lines are known to break because of contact with the power steering line. This would add unwanted air and diminish fuel pressure at the same time. Next I would check the exhaust system very carefully for leaks, these manifolds are now 10 years old and prone to cracking. If it broke once, it will break again, the stock manifolds are junk. Make certain that they do not leak anywhere. Then I would go to the engine and check carefully for any other vacuum leaks. The next thing I would look at is the fuel pressure on each bank of the engine, typically they should be the same on each side of the engine (spec is 55 psi). Lastly with all else eliminated, I would look at the sensor values to see if the oxygen sensor is telling the truth. The easiest way to test the oxygen sensor is to induce a large vacuum leak and see if the O2 sensor value goes full lean, then spray some carb cleaner in the intake and see if it goes rich. So you have enough info now to get a good solid picture of what is taking place, let me know how things work out and we will adapt a new strategy as needed. Best of luck!! ---Kent and Luigi

[BLAMPEE]

Originally Posted by Luigi Scala

The good news here is that your mechanic is correct in his assumption of the long term fuel trim being the problem. P1130-LONG TERM FUEL MULTIPLCATIVE (BANK 2)- SYSTEM TOO LEAN (MAX). This means in laymens terms that the drivers side of the engine is and has been running way too lean (too much air in the combustion mixture) and the engine management cannot correct the mixture by adding fuel.
We have three schools of thought to process... One being that there is simply an air leak (and or vacuum leak) somewhere,letting unmetered air into the exhaust stream. This could be from a broken vacuum line, a bad intake manifold gasket, a leak from the exhaust manifold etc.etc. The second is that there is not enough fuel being delivered for the amount of air going through the air flow meter into the engine. So no matter how hard the ECU tries to compensate with added fuel, it never has enough. The third being the sensor values validity. It is possible that the air flow meter and or oxygen sensors are giving false or skewed information to the ECU.
With all that said, I would first look very closely at the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, remove it and check for cracks holes etc..These lines are known to break because of contact with the power steering line. This would add unwanted air and diminish fuel pressure at the same time. Next I would check the exhaust system very carefully for leaks, these manifolds are now 10 years old and prone to cracking. If it broke once, it will break again, the stock manifolds are junk. Make certain that they do not leak anywhere. Then I would go to the engine and check carefully for any other vacuum leaks. The next thing I would look at is the fuel pressure on each bank of the engine, typically they should be the same on each side of the engine (spec is 55 psi). Lastly with all else eliminated, I would look at the sensor values to see if the oxygen sensor is telling the truth. The easiest way to test the oxygen sensor is to induce a large vacuum leak and see if the O2 sensor value goes full lean, then spray some carb cleaner in the intake and see if it goes rich. So you have enough info now to get a good solid picture of what is taking place, let me know how things work out and we will adapt a new strategy as needed. Best of luck!! ---Kent and Luigi

Thank you so much for the response. After checking my service notes this is exactly what he told me regarding BANK 2 running lean. He did perform a smoke test (no known leaks), we did put in rebuilt headers, and we put in new 02 sensors. The only thing he did not do was check the fuel pressure on each bank. He will do that in 2 weeks when I return home. He alsi said something on the phone just now regarding swapping something that has to do with the air being metered from left to right to see if the problem will follow to the other side. I'm sorry I don't remember exactly what he said.

But, I will keep you posted on what happens.

Thansk again!

[fatbillybob]

Hi Kent,

What is the ferrari code P1245? Generically it is alternator load input failed low. Is that what it is for ferrari? Also, What does this mean in english?

Thanks!

[Woodworth]

FBB, What a good question, I had to dig deep on this one. What car is this code from??
The Ferrari DTC P1245 is for Lambda IC CJ 125 circuit malfunction. I can only find it used in two models of car, the 612 and the Quattroporte (they are identical in their electronic architecture). I do not know WHAT kind of malfunction the circuit has, only that it is a class 3 error, meaning it will illuminate the CEL after 2 drive cycles and store a DTC in memory. The circuit is integral in the Lambda feeler (oxygen sensor) and is used as a "voltage regulator" for the wide band O2 sensor. It has a resistor and a capacitor built in to regulate voltage flow. I also do not know what bank it corresponds to, I assume bank 1, there also a P3013 for the same circuit malfunction, I assume that is bank 2. It would be for the front sensor, the rear sensor is for cat efficiency.
The long and short of this is, you PROBABLY have a defective LH front oxygen sensor, but they cannot be tested when dynamic, so you can only replace it with new, clear the code and see what happens. With that said, I would replace both front sensors for preventative maintenance. I hope this helps, best of luck !!