using a battery charger..

Yeah brother. A LOT of people here use battery tenders on their 360's.


Connect the positve (red wire) to any terminal under the lid of the black box in the center of the pic with the red + on it.

Connect the negative (black wire) to any chassis bolt in that area.

This 'hook up', can be found behind the drivers seat.

Or you can just connect to the battery direct.
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Yup; Even my daily drivers get the charger. Even though they get a workout for a week every other week [shift in, shift out] I keep them on a charger.

Here's the T's, which is exactly like the 456's. And if you are wondering why I didn't buy a more fancy one, well, FofSF installed it, and that was their choice, and, as for my 'cleanliness award' it's a daily driver
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The brass bolt at the top of Pap's photo appears to be the intended ground point. For ease of use, I would wire up an easily accessible plug that is attached to the points Pap described. Will save ya having to undo all that stuff each time you wish to plug in.

 

I was just going to post, but will jump in here. Any difference in battery tenders? or said differently, minimum amperage? multiple amps? etc.

I am assuming 1.5 - 2 amps is considered the trickle charge, and the higher an actual quicker battery charge...is that the net of it?

Any need to get fancy with these things? or will the $25.00 one from the auto parts store do?

 

Alger wired one into my car. A little plug/lead that comes with the Deltran (do a search, widely recommended and inexpensive) was wired from the battry to the rear facing scoop in front of the right wheel well. It even has a little rubber cap attached to it.

Returning from a drive I just uncap the lead, plug the Deltran in, and see if the red light goes on. In ten minutes it is flashing green and in twenty it is solid green (fully charged and on maintenance). To drive I unplug the lead, push the rubber cap on, stuff the lead into the scoop and go. I don;t even unplug the Deltron from the wall.

It seems to be a good unit. My F-car has the orig 2003 battry. When I ran my Toyota battry dead, I hooked up the Deltron with the alternate little battry terminal clips and waited until I got the green light and the battry has been solid since. Lots of times when a lead-acid gets fully discharged they are never the same.

The 360 has so many computers and there are so many "learned" settings (from operation of the soft top to engine control) and lots of adjustable settings (like F-1 clutch operation) that you never want the computers to go dead for lack of power.

 

I purchased one of the Deltran (Battery Tender Jr) and the red light stayed on for 5 minutes or so (supposedly indicating less than 80% charge). After that I gave up and read that the Battery Tender Pro is temperature compensating. It is hot here in Texas so this might have had something to do with it. According to Deltran in cold temperatures a battery tends to get undercharged, but more significantly is in hot temperatures, the battery could get overcharged unless it is temperature compensating.

Not wanting to take a chance I am returning mine for the temperature compensating "pro" model.

Good luck.

-Jim

 

The Deltran is the best, and very well made. I think mine is over 10 years old. I bought it originally for my Harley from the HD dealer (Has the HD logo on it) for not a lot of $$. I have it tied in directly, and whenever it goes back on the lift I plug it in. If you go to Deltran's website, they explain how they work and the diff between a charger and trickle charger.

 

I use the Ferrari one from Ricambi. I switch out the Ferraris and leave one on top pf the lift for months at a time so I plug it in. I use the lighter adapter because it's easy.

 

I have a Deltran Battery Tender Plus, Deltran Battery Tender Jr, Griot's Garage Battery Tender, Napa battery maintainer, Sears charger with a 2amp maintainer feature, Griot's Garage battery charger with 2amp maintainer feature, and a Black & Decker battery maintainer. I have found no real differences in performance between them. All long as the device is microprocessor controlled, they all work similarly.

I would try the $25 one for starters.

 

Jim,
The Jr will have the red light on the entire time it is charging. It will turn green when fully charged. Sounds normal to me. It is only 800 milliamp output, so it can take a while to top up a battery sometimes. BUT, I think the lower powered units like the Jr can more completely charge a battery, versus the 1.25 to 2 amp versions. From my experimentation, if I charge a battery with a 1.25, 1.5 or 2 amp charger, then put the jr on it, it will continue to charge for another 20 to 45 minutes topping up. If I charge with a jr, then attach a larger charger, it instantly reads with a green light and indicates "fully charged". Just my observation.

 

Thanks for the info. According to the one that I have
Solid Red - Charging (Battery less than 80%)
Blinking Green - Charging (Battery 80%+) charged
Solid Green - Maintaining

Since my car starts fine (and I tested it on my other car with same result), I could not understand why it would not atleast be blinking green. I returned it (thinking the first one was defective) but the second unit did the same. That is when I read the directions more closely and noticed about the temperature compensation BT Plus.