Hood Shock Replacement

Go in thru the Battery access cover for the RH side gas spring and remove the LH side front turn signal lamp housing to do the LH side gas spring (i.e., remove the two philips head screw holding on the upper lense and remove the upper lense, then remove the two round head slotted screws and remove the entire front turn signal lamp housing). Also requires having the headlamp pods in the "up" position IIRC -- put them "up" and then open the battery disconnect switch to limit the current draw and for safety.

 

Dear Ferraristi,

yes, you're missing the fact that it's a big PITA.

Ok, here we go.

The passenger side can be accessed from the battery box. To make life easier, slide off the battery box cover door. Cover the battery terminals in case you short accross them while working in there with steel tools. While the hood is open, you can pull the retaining clips off the shock, and it should pop off. You can access the hood attachment point by working in the front horn area. Put the lights on so you can work without hitting the painted side of the light assembly. That was the easy part.

The driver side...the PITA part.

Ok, to access this side, you have to remove the fog / turn signal unit. This will give you access to the mounting points. Again work from the fog light area hole and the horn area.

When trying to put the new shock on, pull the hood up a little farther than it will go up, that should give you the clearance to mount the shock on the mounting point.

Use new retaining clips. MAKE SURE OF THE DIRECTION OF THE RETAINING CLIPS !! They must be flush with the shock. The clearance of the shock mounting point and the painted headlight assembly is way too close. If the retaining clip leg is left "outward" it will scratch the side of the headlight.

I hope this helps.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

Ummm...

How about filling out your profile


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

Good Stuff Shamile!
I'm sure I'll need to refer back to this thread in the near future.
Emery

 

It's not that bad if you do it as 90tr and Shamile said. Takes about 1 hour start to finish. Just take your time and remember to exhale.

 

After you replace the shocks, keep an eye on how they perform. After about a month, my new shocks(from Ferrari) performed just like the old ones. Maybe one of my winter projects is to get my old ones rebuilt. There a guy in Calif that can repressurize them and improve the seals. He mentioned that the shaft seal should be down in the closed position to stay wet. I haven't got back to him yet but he even called me on a Sunday to discuss the problem. Ok, I found the email: Stephan Fenner info@lstechnologies.ca and when I get a chance, I'll check to see if can fix the 348 glove box and console struts. Good luck!

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr

 

I think you guys are making the changing of the driver side strut harder than it really is, there is no need to go through the trouble of removing the signal light at all. Inside the trunk on the driver side, opposite where the battery compartment is on the other side, roll back the carpet (Held inplace by velcro) and expose the panel which you can remove by removing the four bolts that's holding it down, then the rest is the same as the passanger side.

 

Anthony C
On my 86TR there is a panel on the driver's side (opposite where the battery panel is). However that driver's side panel does not have bolts. Rather it is sealed on with what looks to be some form of serious adhesive. In fact it may even be welded on. Be curious to know if anyone else has my version.

 

On my 90 TR there is a horizontal panel on the driver's side behind the headlight that is held down by 4 bolts. This provides access to the AC condensor and the aft strut attachment point. There is also a vertical panel held on by 4 bolts that provides access to the back of the headlight and to the side marker light. This is the easiest way to reach the front mounting point. Having the headlight up is also important. I found an F-chat thread that called out Belcamp BK 8195573 gas spring as the closest replacement to the original. It said the strut must have 75# compression at near-extended condition to hold the hood open. 65# is not enough. Mine measured 58# and were not close. The replacements measured 81# and 83#. I paid a total of $48 including tax for the pair. They don't have the little horsey on them, but who ever sees them. The holes are little oversized, and needed a home-made bushing to fit right, but that's part of the fun, right? Another little item crossed off the list. Now, how long before they fade to 65#? Time will tell...

Tom

 

Dear Ferraristi,

It will last about a year....or less.

hmmm.... I found this mystery panel with the four bolts on my 91. I will try that access point next time....sooner than you think.

Good Tip gtbastian..... and his "naked" TR


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

(wow, first post on the this thread in 4 years!)

A quick update and a few tips.

Just replaced the hood struts on my 90 TR today with the Strong Arm 4025 (Kenco's recommendation in April last year, you can find them on Advance Autopoarts' website, no affiliation), and I can confirm that they fit and work very well.

They are a little tricky to put in place as the barrel has to be put towards the driver/passenger. They also have a very slight angle on the piston head, so you have to mount first the bumper side (access through front of the hood), then the driver/passenger side.

I removed the driver's side panel in the trunk (opposite of the battery door, held with 4 screws) which made it a lot easier than removing the driver turn/fog light.

One quick tip, if like me you lose a pin (fell somewhere behind the bumper, never found it...), you can replace it by a large staple (the ones you put in staple guns) once you've shapes it back into a pin with a pair of pliers. Worked great!

Last thing, as Shamile said, remember to raise the lights and when you put the pins back on, make sure they don't stick out, otherwise you'll scratch the lights as they pop-up.

 

Exactly as I did mine. Great tips!

I think I paid $10.50 each for them from Advance Auto. They are still working fine.

 

+1... Exactly as I did mine.
Took me one hour because I did't know I have to "flip" the original position to install the replacement... duh.
After seen that was the best way (only way) to make it fit , was just a matter of put back in place.Easy...

 

Just added to cross reference thread. Good stuff fellas.

 

I just did all 4 of mine today. The only thing I can add, is that on the front, instead of using cotter pins, I used hairpin-clips. To make it easier to do it next time.

 

This is the confusing bit. I have read elsewhere that the strut body has to be higher than the shaft. When I looked under the hood (bonnet), the front of the car locating position is higher than the rear location, which would mean that the body of the strut is in the forward position.
Can anybody confirm this?
if so, there doesnt seem to be that much clearance with the light pod for that to happen, is there?

 

Yes, the body of the gas spring goes forward (to meet the gas spring manufacturer's recommendation to keep the seal lubricated), and, no, there isn't much clearance (nor for the clip/stud as Shamile mentioned). This photo shows the Napa unit (plus special adapter end bushings) mounted on my TR:
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Anthony, Steve is right, the barrel is forward with the OEM strut, but you can't mount it this way with the Strong Arm 4025, you have to put the barrel towards the cabin side.

If you use the Napa or OEM ones, follow Steve's instructions, if you use the 4025, reverse it.

 

Damn, better get on it and turn them around

thank you.

 

I think I need to replace all my struts but want to be sure I get the right ones. ('87 TR with 3rd brake light).

For the rears, I've read that SG402012 is the correct one but does it include the electrical switch?

Can't find PN for the front struts.

Thanks

 

I put Stabilus SG402012 in the front - worked like a charm (http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/433818-any-tricks-front-hood-hinges.html)

 

Thanks Joe.
Just to be sure, that PN is for the fronts right? Could have sworn I read they were the rears

Got a rear PN?