Retrofit of Fiorano handling package to 575

im a sure the Fiorano package was available with the std 575 wheels ! IIRC the press car at that time had the std wheels. Only the GTC had the bigger one to fit the CCB

 

Um, no.

The factory upgrade bulletin specifically gives ride height and spring compression measurements. Given this you can check front and rear ride height at static load and determine if the shop got it right.

Specifications are the same for 18" and the optional 19" tires.

There is not a suspension ECU listed, just a power steering ECU, part number 175891.

It does say that the car will have to settle in, and will likely drop 4mm on the front and 5mm on the rear.

I can forward this on to you as it is too big to post, PM me with your email.

 

Suspension ECU 210578 is what he's referring to. (non-HGTC = 183960, I think)

Lowell, what year is your car?

 

Stebro front section, your Stebro midpipe and Stebro straight tailpipes.
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The Fiorana package could be ordered with both the 18 and 19 wheels. The local dealer recommended (to me) against ordering the Fiorano package with 19 inch wheels because they felt the ride would be too harsh.

But, it certainly was available for both sets of wheels.

Steve

 

I did the FHP retrofit on my 550, the suspension ECU was not compatible. Jack did Willie ever send that back???

 

So a **575** suspension ECU does not work on a 550. The FHP was made for the 575, right? Why would or should it work on a 550?

 

There was a Fiorano package for the 550 long before the 575 ever existed.

John

 

Oh, well, that certainly alleviates my confusion. Are people trying to fit 575 kits on 550's?

 

Lstrauss,

How much were the parts and how much was the labor for this, out the door?

Thanks!

 

Wheel size choice of 18 or 19" does not affect ride height.. the diameter of the tyre is the same for both.... Somebody is telling you porkies.

Here's my tech advice I supply with springs... read it and quiz them on procedure...

Ferrari 550 Sports Spring Package.

1) Fill car with ~50% fuel or equivalent load (~40kg) in rear. Add ~75kg to both seats. Ensure all steering and suspension components and ball joints and bushes are in good condition. Check tyre pressures to be at their HOT settings… ie ~10% over their cold setting. Check all wheels to be in good condition and not buckled. Using flat ground, Ensure car has travelled at least 2metres backwards and forwards after being jacked up and down.

2) Using a tape measure, note the distance from the very lower edge of each wheel rim (NOT the ground), directly through the centre cap badge, to a point of reference on the wheel arch. (Mark with tape/pen etc.)


3) Raise the car and remove the spring/shocks assemblies completely. Disconnecting the upper front ball joint makes this process quite easy. Be careful with the washers used as spacers at the lower shock fitting.

4) On the bench, swap the springs. There may be some small trimming of material required to accommodate proper seating of the springs (this depends on year/market). In theory, the new springs should go straight in and the platforms should not need to be moved if factory ride height is set currently, and to be maintained with the new set up. However, small adjustments, and/or non originality will be encountered, so it is advisable to prepare the platforms for adjustment while easily accessible, Mark their position first. This is also a good time to lubricate the lower shock mounting ball joints inside the rubber cover, with Teflon spray or similar.


5) Mount the spring/shocks assemblies, being careful to tighten all fastenings with loaded suspension.

6) Place the car on the ground and settle the suspension as per step 1.


7) Note the wheel arch heights for comparison. If they are lower by up to 2mm or higher by up to 5mm, no further action is necessary (The new springs will settle ~3mm). If they are lower by more than 2mm, adjust the platforms until the original height is reproduced, or if the customer wants the car lowered, then set accordingly. It is important for the rake to remain the same within 5mm. After each adjustment it is essential to re settle the suspension as per step 1. If adjusting the car to be considerably lower than std, you may find the rear springs to begin to hang free on the platforms at full droop. This is quite acceptable up to 15mm of slack.

8) Once the ride heights are established, carry out a full 4 wheel alignment, checking caster, camber and toe all round. Maintaining equal caster side to side is essential, so if adjusting for extra negative camber is required, caster must be checked without fail.

9) If corner weighting is required, now is the time.

10) I suggest the following alignment as a base setting for road/track use….

Ride height 15mm lower than std. (Fit 30mm spacers to rear)
Front toe 0.5mm each side. 1mm total toe IN.
Front Caster to be std… ~5.5 deg but equal.
Front Camber ~1 ½ -2 deg, but equal
Rear Camber ~ 2 deg
Rear Toe to be increased to 3mm each side, 6mm total toe IN.


If they don't inspire confidence... take it to a motorsport preparer or other specialist with experience in these things...