To drop the engine out of a 348 & 355 is just about the same. Here are the steps. 1) Take the car to a shop that can evacuate the freon from the a/c system. You will need it empty to disconnect the a/c lines. 2) Disconnect the battery, and the ground cables to the frame. 3) Disconnect the ECU's located behind the seats. 4) Lift the car up for access to the bottom. Then remove the covers under the gas tank, and the shift linkage. For the 355 you will also need to remove the under tray and defuser. 5) Disconnect the shift linkage, at the gear box. 6) Drain the oil, using the 12mm allen bolt at the front of the engine, and the plug at the bottom of the oil tank in the rear. DO NOT use the one on the bottom of the engine. 7) Remove the rear wheels, and rear wheel well liners. 8) Drain the radiators using the plastic drain screw, located at the bottom right corner of each radiator tank. 9) Disconnect the cooling hoses, and heater hose attatched to the water pump. They are in the middle, upper, front part of the engine. 10) Disconnect the fuel filters, fuel lines, lines going to the charcoal filter, and connectors to the evaporation system. 11) Disconnect the oil line to the oil cooler, and the line from the oil tank. 12) Disconnect the break lines. 13) Disconnect the line to the clutch. 14) Disconnect the parking break. 15) Disconnect the A/C lines 16) Disconnect the speedometer/tachometer electronic connection going from transmission to the connector, between the clutch line attachment and the charcoal canister, on the body. It is on the left hand side of the engine bay. 16.5) If you are using two floor jacks, you will need to remove the rear bumper. If you have access to a shop lift this step isn't nessesary. 16.5a) To remove the bumper first disconnect the license plate light (and for U.S. cars the side marker lights). You will then need to remove the heat sheilds. Now remove the 4 nuts, two on each side of the bumper, located near the wheel well. Then remove the 4 nuts that hold the bumper to the frame, they are by the muffler, and remove the bumper. 17) Disconnect the bolts that hold the exhaust to the frame. 18) Remove the air filter box. 19) Disconnect the throttle cable 20) Loosen the twelve bolts, but do not take them out yet, that hold the subframe to the body, located at the front bottom of the engine bay. 21) Lower the car so that the engine is sitting on the engine dolly. You can get a 1/2 ton flat moving dolly that will do the job just fine. The kind that has four caster wheels on the bottom and carpet on the sides. 22) Now that the engine is resting on the dolly, you can completely remove the twelve bolts that hold the subframe to the body. 23) Remove the nuts, three on each side, that hold the shock towers to the body. But don't remove the nut that holds the shock in place on the subframe. For 355's you will need diconnect the ride adjustment motors. 24) Remove the four bolts that hold the rear of the subframe to the body. 25) Double check to make sure you have everything disconnected properly. 26) Raise the body of the car leaving the engine resting on the dolly. As you are raising the body feed the ECU cables through the holes. Doing it this way makes it much easier. 26.5) This step is if you are using the two floor jack method. After you have the body off of the engine you will need to rotate the engine 90deg. in order for the shock towers to clear the bottom of the cross bar, that the heat sheild is connected to. 27) Roll the engine out. If you are going to use the two floor jack method, you will need to make sure that the floorjacks have a lift height of at least 20"-21". Other wise you will not be able to get the car high enough to roll the engine out. Also make sure the you are using jack stands and wheel stops. Happy wrenching.
I know these steps are already out there, but I figured I would make a special thread for them. I posted the instructions in responces to questions in the past. Now they have a dedicated thread to make it easier for people to find via the search button.
Nice post mate I droped my engine out 3 weeks ago now. Walk in the park. Thanks again for the post Ernie
Right on dude!!! I almost can't wait to drop my motor (myself)! Though it has only been 10 months since the last "engine out"..... Does anyone have the specs/procedure for the cam timming??
Ernie's steps (above) with pictures and step-by-step hyperlinks: http://www.the348.com/tech/348.html#enginepull
30K Major Service Engine Pull Drop Engine Drop Remove Engine Belt Change Timing Belt Waterpump Water Pump motor lift
Thanks ernie. Myself and a friend will be taking it out in a couple of weeks. I'm about to do the following. Is there anything I'm missing? The 348 is over 12 years old. - Replacing water radiators & fans - Replacing rubber coolant pipes with silicon ones - Replacing cam seals - Doing a 18K service (new oil, spark plugs etc) - Changing cam belt - Changing tensioners - Changing water pump - painting cam covers - Cleaning engine - Do the valves - Do the cam timing - Replace head gaskets??? Can't think of anything else.
Hey Sy, just a thought, but if up to me I'd save the water radiators and fans for when they fail, rather than do them proactively...simply because they are dead easy to swap out even with the engine still in the car: http://www.the348.com/tech/348.html#Water Also, those radiators can be easily disassembled with a simple flat-blade screw driver (used as a pry bar) to swap out the seal (if that's the cause of a small leak).
Well the new ones have been lying in my garage for about 4 months now. I have to put them in while I still have some warranty left. There's no leak, just that the rads are old as is the header tank which is codding quite badly from the underside.
Unless the head gasket has blown I would leave it alone. Hey that rhymed, lol. Make sure you change hose running from the back of the water pump to the crossover pipe.
I had an engine out service last year so 2 years from now it will be done in my garage. These steps are certainly a good step on the way............but it would be so much easier with the photos as compliment. Think maybe PAP has a point there. On the other hand those guys who claim it is a walk in the park did not need those photos. Guess the photos wouldnt hurt if someone took those shots while they are at the job anyway. Thanks for your kind effort so far. It sure helps us amateurs a lot as it is. Kind regards, //B//
Look at this becuase I did it recently. I have more pics available than the thread shows. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159751&highlight=355+Engine
Just in case somebody finds this old thread, here is the link to my latest thread with pics. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/438576-348-engine-out-major.html
