Mondial Fuel Pump & Fuse

I only know this from doing pre-purchase research on Mondials, but the fuse box has design issues. I would guess that the fuse holder is either broken or has a bad solder connection to the circuit board and just messing with the fuse makes a temporarily good connection. Vibrate for that connection for 20 miles and it gets flaky again. Next time it fails just gives a wiggle and see if the pump starts up again.

 

Ditto, I've had the same problem on other F-cars.

Reposition the fuse and all is well again.

Last time it happened, I took the fuse block out and repaired it.

No problems since.

 

Mondials have a common problem with the connector that goes into the fuse box. I had an intermittant problem with my Mondial 3.2 fuel pump, and the fix involved me fitting a new bayonet style wire connector bypassing and in addition to the existing connector.

The fuel pump draws a high current, which the standard connector fitting can just handle when new. With time, the connector resistance increases till not enough current is available to run the fuel pump. Test this by jiggling the connector next time the fuel pump stops, to see if it starts again. On my car, the connector showed black burn marks, due to the heat produced by the high resistance. Initially I tried many things to try to fix the problem, but when I wired in my connector bypass, the problem was fixed. That was 4 years ago, and it hasn't recurred.

Your fuses do not seem to be blown, but maybe by replacing the fuse, you are also moving the connector contacts, temporarily allowing enough current through.

The other connectors plugging into the fusebox don't seem to cause a problem, I assume because they involve lower current transmission.

Post whether this fixes your problem or not.

 

I just developed the classic fuel pump connector/fuse problem. Mine was at the 10-pin connector that attached at the right side of the fuse panel. Once I disconnected the connector, the burn mark could be clearly seen on the connector housing. It actually melted the area on the connector. Fortunately, the meltdown did not extend into the fuse panel itself and only affected the connector.

No problem though. For an OEM fix:

The connector is $19.95 and the matching female/or male connectors (depends on your model) at $24 for the set from T. Rutlands. You just snip the wires at the connector (make sure you number each wire to remember the order, or do one pin at a time as you cut the wire from the old connector and thread it through the new connector, crimp and solder the end and pull it back through the connector to seat the pin). This will solve the problem for a number of years.

For an aftermarket fix: You can also just replace the affected pin with the standard plastic covered bayonet fitting found at any home center, attatch it at the end of the wire after threading it through the original connect, connect it to the corresponding pin on the fuse panel, and slide the rest of the connector down and into the fuse panel as before. This would cost about $2 and would likely do as well.

I've done both. I've already ordered the parts from Rutlands. While I'm waiting, I performed the aftermarket fix. I'll check it periodically to see if I want to keep it this way. If not, I'm ready.

While your at the fuse panel, you might as well examine the other multi-pin connectors and relays. Spray the ends with "electircal contact cleaner" as before you replace them. Fortunately, I've been told that it's quite un-common for issues to develope with the other connectors. I also went ahead and ordered 1 each of the different types of square metal covered relays that are at the fuse panel ($19.34 each). Just in case. I'll have them with the car and ready. On my '87 Mondi cabrio, there were only two types.


One of the cheapest fixes there is.

Al.

 

Wish I had read this thread sooner. Just went through the same exact problem. My '82 Mondial would run fine, then at times it wouldn't start. When it wouldn't start the windows and sunroof also wouldn't work. The problem was the fuse holder (same fuse for fuel pump and window lifts) had a bad solder connection. After running jumpers on the back of the fuse block the car runs fine.

My only complaint about the diagnostic process is that the electrical manual doesn't have a layout to identify the locations of the fuses and the fuse box doesn't have the fuse numbering system the manual uses. Does anyone have a fuse location identifier?

 

i sourced a wiring diagram a few yrs ago off the web. it's for the 3.2 however the everything is still the same aside from some cabin changes. it is no longer available on-line since the site is gone. i can make hard copies for those interested.

 

Thanks for the offer Scott. I have a 1982 wiring diagram for the Mondial 8 but I can't find a component location diagram to cross reference the fuse identifier numbers in the diagram with their physical locations. Does your diagram have a physical location reference?

Also, a word of CAUTION to everyone using the 1982 Mondial 8 wiring diagrams - while diagnosing my problem above we discovered that the wiring diagram (page 2) for the fuel pump and fuel starting relays is incorrect. The relays are wired differently from what is shown. Unfortunately I didn't write down the specifics. I'll check with my friend who help to see if he has the exact pin out.

 

yes it shows the fuse locations, they are numbered even! and what they are for. also it has the internal 'wiring' of the fuse block to show how each fused is carried to which relay and to what connector. also lists the locations of the connectors.

all in all i found it highly accurate, considering it's for a 3.2 and i have an 8. the only differences will be interior switches and enigne related. but chassis is the same and i found it to be very usefull.

it's broken down by circuts which is very nice. each fig starts with a page listing the items and color of wire, the second page is the circut diagram from the fuse block out, it even points out where a circut will interact with another and where.

i was able to use to re-wire the radio. fix the door locking. some external light issues. fuel pump relay and on, on. i even removed the entire fuse panel and cleaned the contacts and re-wired some PO's mistakes.

 

you know if somebody ahs access to one of those fancy office scanner/copiers that makes PDF's we could do that and host it somewhere.

 

here's what I did to mine.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86439

 

Found the info on the fuel pump relay wiring diagram inaccuracies:

On page two of the 1982 Mondial 8 Wiring Diagram the fuel pump relay is shown differently than what is actually wired in the car. Electrically it doesn’t make a difference but it can drive you mad when trying to trace out the circuits. Reverse pins 87 and 30 as well as pins 85 and 86 on the diagrams for accuracy.

 

Scott,

Javelin276 beat us to it in another thread. He posted the 3.2 wiring diagram in PDF format.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87920&page=2

 

I think this is the most reliable fix, and would add taking the out put wire and splicing directly into the wire after the connector, completely hving the current bypass the white plastic connector. You would never worry about it again.
good luck

 

Mark -

I think the problem may be at the connector where you saw the classic overheat. I think that connection is a bit underengineered when the Bosch high pressure fuel pump draws a lot of amperage. Probably draws the most amperage outside the starter motor itself. I would consider taking the offending wire out of the connector (it is the supply TO the pump from the relay) and wire it directly to an external relay as shown by lovespeed.

Good luck

For all Mondial owners: The infamous fuel pump high amp overtemp/burnout at the connector:
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Vito,

You are correct. My connector was good but I had the same problem you do with my fuse block. I took out the entire fuse block and soldered heavy jumper wires to the back. Runs great now! Next I will bypass the connector just to be safe.