308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

And hopefully, the bad sister, with the flat-12 will be joining you guys ;-)

 

Joining, or pulling away?

 

Yeah, that too....

 

Fast radio,

It looks like you have a shop press exactly like mine. I got mine from A& I and bought it cause it was made in the US but the bed was off from the moment they delivered it. I was wondering if yours had the same problem??????

Rob

Of course you still have all your stickers on!!!
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Rob,

Our preses are similar, although it looks like your hydraulics are on the side, versus mine which are in the center at the ram. The bed is somewhat of a pain to move, as it does want to fall off when I need to adjust its height. Shortcomings aside, she's a good workhorse!

I guess I need cooler stickers...I know!

Best,
David

 

He mentioned that to me about your motor a couple days ago... who would do such a thing?!?!? But then mine had an attempted JB Weld on one of the bolt heads, so I guess the answer to my own question is, "more than one person would."

 

And boy was that broken off "hardened" bolt a bear to get out of the crankshaft. Nice use of JB Weld, though...NOT!
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Good stuff there guys. Using Loktite/Permatex 518 for the case halves?

 

Absolutely...and the primer.

 

That's going to cost you a few extra pizza's today.lol

 

Despite being older than TecGT, I wonder how much of a difference TEC3 is tuning from it?

 

It seems the main difference is in their dashboard - software-wise. I suspect the new software has better diagnostics, as well. I believe there are also more I/O device options. On the hardware side, they are using a new chip set from what I understand. I was able to bring the TEC3 .bin file into the TECGT software without any issues.

 

Agreed. Nick charges somewhat high prices, but he's great. It's money well spent in most cases.

I think if you get the Tec3 updated to a Tec3R, it can run the same WINTEC4 software that comes with the TecGT. I'm not 100% sure of the exacts, but sending my Tec3 in to be updated is on my list of to do's this spring.

The TecGT seems like a better setup. The only downside is that it's designed for smaller engines as it only has 6 injector channels (so you can't run full sequential on a V8). I wish I had the 8 GPOs from it though - the 4 on the Tec3 is just a few too little.

 

If you don't mine me asking, what questions did you have about the TEC3 and what were Nick's answers? I'm always looking for new ways to tweak the system.

thanks,
Paul

 

Hey man,

The dash gauges will all still work as long as you don't cut the wires for them out. The new sensors that you're installing in the engine to run the Tec3 have absolutely nothing to do with the dash gauges.

They're wired completely separate from the Digiplexes. It's not like a new car where everything is piggybacked off of each other.

The only dash gauge that you'll need to wire into the new ECU is the tach. You just take the tach output wire from the Tec3 and connect it to the wire in the old Digiplex harness (that runs up to the tach).

I might start rewiring my car this weekend, depending on where I get with the HVAC duct. Pictures soon enough...

 

great read guys! ...the borken flywheel bolt is a bummer, but i'll admit i red-loctite the heck out of mine too LOL

what make is the blue timing belt?

....only belt i've gotten other then black, was a gates, but was not for Ferrari though

 

Chris,
wiring the tach black box into to the XDI system is easy

the first two of your pictures are important, the black box diagram and the original digiplex connectors


the XDI main ecu has a 23-pin connector...
the tachometer output is on pin 18, brown wire (see A in the table below and your XDI manual)


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this is where you hook up the white wire of the black box
the black wire of the black box goes to chassis ground, see your above diagram


now, take the two connectors from your original digiplex units and pull back their rubber protectors -
here you will see the coloured wires (see pics below, connectors are taped and wires numbered)


splice the violet wire of the black box on to the brown wire (pin 10) of the first digiplex connector


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splice the red wire of the black box on to the yellow wire (pin 8) of the second digiplex connector


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you can`t miss this procedure because the wire colours on both digiplex connectors are different
(btw. the tach signal is the reason you need the original digiplex connectors and the black box...the digiplex boxes themselves can be left out of course)


et voila...your tach should work now as planned


hint:
the XDI main ecu and black box should be placed in the trunk due to heat and noise in the engine bay and coil sorroundings...
wiring the XDI harness from the coils through around the left rear wheel well and the firewall into the trunk can be a bit of a pita ...
I think this is the reasons for your pics of the areas...but you will find a way somehow

.

 

.
have fun
.
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