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#21
10-24-2009, 06:49 PM
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This is correct. When the doors are open the pin switches supply ground to power their own door lights (marker and puddle), to C8 pin 4 for powering the dome light, and through interconnection at this pin supply ground for the opposite door's lights. Attached is a picture of C8 on my '90 Testarossa, hiding up above the passenger side speaker. The two dark PURPLE wires (not N, black, as indicated) here come from the two pin switches, after being split to also illuminate their respective door. On the other connector side there is a single N (black) wire from this pin leading to power the dome light. What you'll see from the pin switches at C8 pin 4, with C8 disconnected, is 0V (referenced to ground) when the doors are open, or ~13V when the doors are closed (pulled through the filaments of the doors' bulbs). I'm hoping to get a Molex pin-puller to pull this pin out, uncrimp the two wires, and confirm that there is no connection here for the driver's side wire. At that point I'll have to dig behind the dash I guess, as the wiring diagram shows that the split between the driver's door connector (leading to the door lights) and that going to C8 occurs basically at the pin switch itself, though I only see a single wire exiting the female blade connector at the driver's pin switch itself. Also managed to pull off the tweeter on the passenger side while messing with this, so I guess I'll have the dash off anyway to replace it. Anyone know a good replacement tweeter that will fit nicely? What about a source for the stock tweeter covers? 
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#22
10-25-2009, 10:43 AM
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Dear Ferraristi,
Mollex Pin puller? If you are trying to pull the pin switch in the door jamb, they are held on by a single phillips screw....which also acts as the ground conductor. Sometimes the screw corrodes and the contact becomes intermittent. Perhaps check the ground to make sure you have connectivity. Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
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#23
10-25-2009, 01:21 PM
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The pin switch at the door is actually doing it's job and provides ground to correctly function the door mounted lights. Though I did re-seat it and manually grounded out the blade terminal just to confirm. Unfortunately there's a disconnect somewhere between the door pin switch (the female blade connector is all I can access at the moment) and C8 pin 4 running to light the dome light. It's going to be a lot easier to look for a failure at C8 than look behind the pin switch, as it seems you'd really have to get the dash off to have any real access behind it, other than through the tiny mounting hole itself. But I'm guessing that the failure is most likely in the split right after the pin switch, as I wouldn't guess there'd be a failure in the wiring harness on such a low amperage circuit, but who knows.
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#24
10-25-2009, 05:00 PM
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Here's another picture sort of completes the circuit of where the failure must be. This is the blade connector leaving the driver's side door light pin switch (as much as I can get to, sorry for the quality), which for my car is also the TOP switch on both doors. Two wires leave the female blade connector, which appear to be purple but sheathed in black protective coating (again, sorry it's really hard to get in and see). One of these wires will head off to run the in-door lights (marker and puddle) via connector C1, and the other will travel to C8 pin 4, as shown in post #21. According to the WSM there is no intervening breaks in this connection. (Note that according to the WSM this is NOT how the passenger side is wired) So for at least in my case where the in-door lights operate but the dome light from that side does not, it is either a failure at this split at the pin switch, the crimp to pin 4 of C8, or in the long run of the purple wire. I have no idea where this harness actually runs from the left side of the car to the right, so I don't know if there's an easy place for an alarm installer to try to tap into it, or how they'd even know to do that. Maybe with the dash off it's easy to trace. I understand you just ran a wire pin switch to pin switch to re-make the connection, right? If it turns out it's a break somewhere along the purple wire I'll probably just do something similar but run from the pin switch here directly to C8.
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#25
10-29-2009, 02:05 PM
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The hansome devil with the Lambo is none other than Professor Shamile himself, ready to assist with Ferrari repair.
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#26
10-29-2009, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Last edited by AHudson; 10-29-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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#28
10-31-2009, 11:11 AM
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Bawhahahaha!  Can't assume we all wear panties....I question but I respect your personal preference.  Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice !
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#29
11-01-2009, 02:28 PM
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#30
11-01-2009, 05:34 PM
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There is one secret to taking off the fiberglass dash panel, and it's these strange bolts. They are attached to the dash by the metal bracket which is held onto the fiberglass with rivets. The end that faces outward takes the smallest metric 1/4 inch drive socket in the set (finally a use for it), and you have to unscrew each of the 4 or 5 bolts to remove the fiberlasss panel. Simple, once you know the secret. You don't have to remove the rivets/brackets unless you are replacing the dash (as I was), in which case you will need to transfer all brackets to the new dash. The corner of my old dash was warped up over the radio cover as you can see in photo #3, but was otherwise perfect. Anybody need an almost-perfect 512TR/M dash? The bolts screw into the threaded holes at the top of photo #5 (hey look - C8 again!). I hope this helps.
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#31
11-05-2009, 02:01 AM
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#32
11-05-2009, 02:23 PM
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What you can't see in the last photo is the brand new expansion valve I installed in the AC system. You can't see it because it's tucked so freakin' far back under all those wires and hoses (to the right of the yellow connector and about 8 inches deep) that no one could possibly get their arm back there to put a crowfoot wrench on the nuts and turn them 1/16 of a turn at a time. No one, that is, except that sinewy master of the prancing horses, Shamile. This is why he was summoned, and he was immensely successful. Never underestimate the power of the man in the linen jacket.
Even with the entire dash out, replacing that expansion valve is one project I never want to attempt again. Thankfully, with the lines flushed and a new compressor and trinary switch, the AC is painfully cold, even in mid-summer Florida heat. Good luck with your electrical mission, cryorunner.
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#33
11-06-2009, 11:13 PM
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Bawhahahaha ! ....it also helps if you don't tell me to turn the wrench the wrong way when I was trying to tighten the valve. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice!
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