Is this a 250 California Spyder?

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I believe it is a repro. It looks like one of the Ferris Bueler (sp?) cars.

Regards,

Art S.

 

It's a fake. The taillights, dash, gauges, pedals, shifter, transmission tunnel, steering wheel/column, door panels, side windows, windshield, fuel filler, etc., are all incorrect.

Brian B.

 

it sits too high, i am not sure about the fender flares and the taillights are mg.

Tom w

 

I was just about to say...

Look at this pic and compare.

http://www.*************/Pic?s=7&y=1957-1963&m=Ferrari&o=250GT%20SWB%20California%20Spyder&p=http://www.*************/servlets/PW/garagePics/Duesey/45car3.jpg&b=http://www.*************/garages/Duesey/45v2.html

 

What is going on here?, in the further updates area:

http://crunch22.blogspot.com/2006/07/ferrari-250-california-spyder-update.html

Is this site a joke?
Pete

 

Based on the pictures, I'd guess it's a rebody of a later model Ferrari. Gauges, other trim pieces are from a newer model. Motor is a Ferrari motor, but looks larger than a 250. I'd guess that this is a rebody of a 330 or 365 2+2. But it's just a guess. Overheating clue makes me think it's a 365 motor.

 

This is a "Ferrari Bueller" a.k.a. Modena-replica of a California spider. One of only a handful using a Ferrari chassis and/or engine. This one was built upon GT/E #3321.

If it was mine, I would scrap the body without blinking an eye.

If you can go back, you will find serial number stamped on frame near driver side front wheel (if they used a Ferrari frame) and on left rear corner of the engine.

 

If a fake is done properly there is no way to spot it! If someone discovers a chassis number that has been lost for some years and then comes up with a plausible story about the car's discovery he can get away with it. It's easier than forging old paintings as if the car is presented in restored condition the faker doesn't have to go to the trouble of replicating the patina of age. Even the so called numero internos can be apparently correct.
In practice nobody goes to the ultimate trouble of 100% accurate reproduction unless the car is worth big money.

 

I have yet to see a fake that has been done properly. It is almost impossible to replicate every exact detail from when the cars were built in the '50-'60s. For example, when Gilco welded the frames, they were stick welded, but most copiers use MIG or TIG welders. It is a lost art to be able to stick weld thin brackets and sheetmetal well.

 

Hey tasman:

Mind explaining the comment regarding how the numero interno can be convincingly faked? I actually have some first hand exposure to this touchy area, and am mighty interested in your answer.

Since the spot on the block skirt where the numero interno is stamped is an area of the raw sand casting, I'm interested to know how the original number could be obliterated, a new one substituted, and the original texture, contour, etc. could be made to look undisturbed.

 

Just cast a new block ... that was how the numbers were originally made and thus can be remade.

Pete

 

Any really good faker will do the welding as per original, believe me it's not a lost art, just less people do it.

 

Apart from recasting which is a possibility if the value warrants the expense, blasting a groung surface with the right grade and type of abrasive can look very convincing. If the grinding creates an obvious depression weld can be added first.

 

The recast blocks do not look like the originals. It is pretty easy to spot one.

It is next to impossible to create a casting that has the exact dimensions and surface finish as the originals, then stamp it with the correct font and size number stamps (which would have to be made, as you can't just buy them), get the spacing, location and depth of the stamp correct, and then and 40-50 years of scars and patina, not to mention effects of corrosion inside water passages.