308 Front swaybar lower end link ES bushing solution?

Does anyone know of a solution/part number for urethane bushings for the lower end link (actually, it's on top in the front) on the front 308 swaybar? The standard 1" (25mm) ES bushings work for the rear bar lower end link (bottom in photo) but the fronts (top in photo) are closer to 1.375" (35mm). I have done a search with no results. I guess I could replace them with the oem rubber bushings since they are only a few dollars each but the plan was to have all the bushings urethane. Thanks.
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Anyone, anyone, Bueller??

 

Red is pretty but too much bling for me. I ended up ordering these in black for the end links.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.8103

They appear to be the right size. I'll know in a few days.
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Yep, the new lift has made it a pleasure to work on. All four 20+ year old shocks and springs are out with new QA-1's and Eibach springs ready to go in. Sway bars are out and ready for paint plus new ES bushings custom fitted. Stock brake lines are history and stainless lines installed. Everything goes back together next week assuming no surprises.

 

As it turns out, these do work for the front upper end link:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.8103

This is ES part # 98103. You must chuck them onto a bolt (sorry no photos of this) in a drill press (or use a lathe if you have one) and carefully put a chamfer on them with a rasp to allow them to fit in the end link. You also must saw off the shoulder on one side. You also have to drill them out to 37/64" to allow the spacer tubes to fit. They are in the upper part of the link in pic #7.

The front lower link bushings (bottom in pic #7) and all the end link bushings for the rear bar are just the standard 98106 1" ES bushings pressed in and drilled out to 19/32". Drill them out after pressing them into the end link.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.8106

The trick to drilling all of these out is to use very high speed, very sharp, new bits and go really slow using the ES bushing grease as lubrication. Press the bushing into a socket or the end link and put the assembly in a vise that can float on the surface of the drill press platform (pic #3). This allows the bit to naturally find the center of the hole. Thanks to Verell and Birdman for their feedback and prior posts on this project. Unfortunately, Verell's idea of using cork borer's did not work for polyurethane material.

Drill bits purchased here: http://www.hermanscentral.com/site/department.cfm?id=08ACE4AE-123F-24EC-3E4728BD9179E42E

The standard bushings for securing the front and rear bars to the frame worked great. I just needed to slightly enlarge the clamp holes with a Dremel for a perfect fit:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.5122

Grand total for ES bushings was about $75 for both front and rear sway bars. I ordered double the amount I knew that I would need because I anticipated that I would (and did) destroy 50% of them figuring out the correct machining/drilling/pressing process.

Please note that my car has 18MM bars front and rear so the part numbers mentioned here might not be correct for your car. Measure first!

A 1+ ton press and a LARGE selection of sockets is a must for this project.

In retrospect, jh355's bushing kits would have been a better idea and a lot less work, tool cost, headaches and head scratching!!

One last thing . . . . this project would not have been possible without my local Harbor Freight store. Say what you want about their tool quality / political correctness of buying Chinese tools. I couldn't afford to play amateur Ferrari mechanic without them!
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I'm going to take a break for awhile, get the car aligned and just drive it. I'm burned out after 20 days of messing with this and the Bend-Pak lift installation in my spare time. My next project will be rebuilding the front calipers and new front wheel bearings - after that maybe a steering rack rebuild . . . it never ends, but it's fun!