Ok, seeing as 430C will come with air jacks like a 360GT, here's what I've (race team) done to the Aussie 360C cars. I've used a big bracket in the front, the idea being to maybe add a little stiffness. This was done at a time when we needed to ballast the cars, and the whole kit installed using rubber lined aeroquip lines weighs about 18kg. The 360GT and 430C use small singular brackets in the front. At the rear, rather than use a gearbox mounted central single jack, I used a pair mounted to the frame. This means the car goes up and down squarely at all times. Some trimming to the aero floor is required, but it is only small. To support it when it's up, simple folded alluminium "stubbies" are used. To control the lift.. a high pressure regulator is needed, a "spike" and an inline tap with spike fitting. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Phil. Just what I needed. Have the air jacks already so now I only need to make brackets to fit.
No problem. Wayne. happy to help as always. If you make smaller front bracket without cross bracing, attack the rear brackets with a hole saw and use teflon lined aeroquip hose you could do it all at about 10-12KG. Be sure to heat shrink over ALL the aeroquip line, as it turns into a high speed hacksaw with engine vibrations!
Is this a "home made" bracket in alu? Wellded or bolted into chassi? Niclas Image Unavailable, Please Login
Its steel, and bolted onto the frame with 3 bolts inside the visible deep tubes. it's important to keep the jack perfectly vertical in all planes, and the frame is not, so the bracket needs to be angled a little.
ok.. Waht do you mean by "Be sure to heat shrink over ALL the aeroquip line, as it turns into a high speed hacksaw with engine vibrations!"? Du you have more pic´s? would be great. Could u give me a hint of camber,caster,toe. I just bought the car an d the seller did not want to give me any info. i massurd today an had -4 camber witch i tink is good but a positve toe in(toe ut) what i have learn on other car´s that wont do it... Many Thanks Nic
The stainless steel braids of the hoses will vibrate at high speed, and will easily cut through wires, pipes and chassis components. They must be securely fastened, and covered with soft rubber coating to prevent this. Wheel alignment..... what tyres will you use. Pirelli need a quite different set up to Dunlop or Michelin for example. Also... what other mods does the car have... wing and/or splitter? Shocks?
hmmm...what does air jacks have to do with brakes... ?? I think you are misunderstanding the topic here.
Ok i understand... I have no modifications on the car. in my race serie it´s not aloud. We use Khumo slick in this one tire series.... Do you knowe what kind of plasttic the aero floor is made in? is it possible to repaair whivth glassfiber or someting.i have smal cracks in it..at a wrong place. Niclas
I have no data for Kumho slicks. So, you will have to do lots of testing!! The floor can be repaired, but it must be totally clean... any oil will prevent a good repair, and it must also be scratched up to provide keying for repairs to stick. Use carbon kevlar (not carbon fibre) patches where it touches the ground, it'll save many future repairs.
Phil: Why bother with carbon kevlar repair? The area by the rear anti-roll bar gets trashed so often we just rivet in a piece of aluminum sheet instead? Or will ck standup to the abuse much better? And why the bracket is made from steel? I am going to have it made from aluminum. I figure each corner only has to take max 600kg. Or is there something I missed?
I thought about doing this but conservatively estimated the increased weight at about 50-60lbs for three jacks 2 rear and 1 front. Did you use AP aluminium cylinders?
You could use alloy I guess, but it would be more likely to stress fatigue... On one of the team cars, we made the front one from Titanium. Saved 5 kg from the steel equivalent. At the time we made these, we needed to add weight for 1355kg race weight (with driver), so it wasn't a decision to be made. The Michelotto front ones are very small and work well, but they don't add any stiffness. The jacks we used are bilstein if I remember correctly. Very light and alloy. For the floor repairs, the kevlar is much tougher, but alloy is easy, quick, cheap and available.
Now now, thats a bit personal isn't it!! I'm afraid I only measure up at about 240mm, but I'm happy with that! There are special tripod extensions you can use to "double jack" the car if you want increase height. Air jacks are only really used to get clearance for changing wheels, and NOT for servicing the car. If working underneath, ALWAYS use solid supports.
Hahaha sorry I´m not so good att your gramatics.. How mutch is the lift under your tires wivth the 240mm jack? Whan i messure ithink i have to use 270mm jack just to get the car off the ground...and then you want some space to change wheels another 30-40mm...or are I out there??? Mabe we don´t use same diameter on the wheel but it shoud not make an 20mm diff? Nick
Well, the jacks are adjustable in height, so I set them to have the same clearance as the lowest part of the car (actually use them as a skid is ok). When fully raised, the wheels are about 30-40 mm clear, so that's fine for racing pit stops. If I want a bit more lift for between session prep checks, I just put wood under the jacks before lifting.... 50mm (2")at front, 75mm (3")at rear.
