348 gas tank removal

No problem.

I posted it for the benefit of the Brotherhood.

From the side.

You get the best access from the wheel wells. Remove the wheels and wheel well splash guards.

 

You know that question did cross my mind. Even though I was able to fit in the space for the tank I really didn't have much wiggle room. I think it could be done on a lift, but I wouldn't wanna try and do it. But that discussion is for another thread.

 

Okay I figure I'll put up some more pics.

Here is how you remove the fuel pumps.

 

Step #1

Remove all the nuts holding the pump to the bottom of the tank.
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Step #2

Gently pry the pump up.

I used a plastic cat-claw that is used for removing door panels. Both the tank and the pump are aluminum so you don't want to mar them. We don't want it leaking when it goes back in.
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Step #3

Now carefully slide the fuel pump out of the tank.
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Thats it's.

Here is a shot of the pumps out of the tank.
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Now for a look inside the tank.
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Here is the inside of the tank. I took the picture from inside the right side fuel pump hole. You are looking left towards the fuel filler neck, and the tank is laying on it's back. You'll notice that the middle baffle is missing, and can see where the spot welds are pulled out on the right side of the picture.
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Here is the cause of my tank leak. The CRAPASS spot welds that pulled out. The middle baffle was COMPLETELY off. I could hear it rattle around as soon as I had the tank out of the car.

I found a guy at a marine boatyard that is willing to weld on the tank. But I have to take it out to him so he can have a good look at it. He was saying that he needs to see what gage the aluminum is. I also told hims that is was a gasoline tank, and he said that it wouldn't be a problem. He'd give it a good washing and then hit it with some sort of gas before he started to cut on it.
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I forgot to mention something.

When you are disconnecting the shift cables, you will also want to disconnect the parking break cable and get it out of the way. And make sure you are in a well ventilated area. I had my garage door wide open, and was running a fan at full speed to help get the gas fumes out of the garage.

 

Don't forget to add it to the primer page Shemp.

 

I'm with Chubbalard on this one.

First of all there really isn't that much room in there. What you don't see in that pic I took of me inside is that, I'm sitting on my hip while leaning on my other arm. Plus as soon as you turn your head your face is right in front of the engine. If you were going to change the belt this way, I think that you will only be changing just the belt, and I really wouldn't try it without the use of a lift. Just yank the engine out, it really isn't that hard, and it's SOOOOOOO much easier to work on with it out.

In these pictures you'll see that, just as fatboy said, the cross member is right in front of the crank pulley. It actually sits right smack in the middle of the thing. So, you are really gonna have to tilt the engine up to be able to get an impact wrench on the crank bolt, and then even further to get the pulley off. That is a lot of stress being placed on the engine mounts.
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LOL! Smartass.

Yeah it is about time. I really have no rush with this car. I get to it when I get to it.

 

Another smartass.

Oh there are still a few things that I haven't touched. Hopefully after this, it will just be regular maintenance things, and nothing big. But what ever the case, I'll still post how to threads.