77-308 radiator aftermarket available?

There is no off-the-shelf one I know of, but I believe one or two members here have had one custom made (in aluminum).

I'm going through something similar - my oil cooler decided to spring a leak again, this time in another location, so that's it, I'm having a new one made (note: yes, I can get an oil-cooler from F of UK, but I want a cooler with different fittings on it as I'm changing the hoses to have standard, Aeroquip AN fittings. Hence the need for a cooler to be fabricated).

I'm having this oil cooler made by a local hot-rod shop that specialises in custom rads & coolers. They'll get back to me on Monday to see if they can do it and I'll relate my experience back here.

As for draining procedure, open the petcock valve on the engine block and the one on the rad. There'll still be coolant in the system though, so once its finished draining from the valves, loosen one of the clamps on the lower hoses and pry back to drain from there as well. Replace that hose afterwards as it may not seal well after prying back.

 

Give Nick a call at Nick's Forza Ferrari on a radiator. We had two custom aluminum radiator upgrades made to provide improved cooling over the stock radiator. The high end version was designed for the 4 liter and supercharged, turbocharged applications. The standard aluminum replacement radiator will work just fine for all other applications. Much lighter than the stock brass radiator as well.

If you have not already purchased your fans, Nick has replacement curved blade high output fans with rebuildable motors. The upgraded fans, radiators are a necessity for the 4 liter. The fans have roughly double the air flow of the stock fans.




QUOTE=greg328]I'm in the process of installing new cooling fans on my 1977 308 GTB.
I've had to dis-assemble the entire lower front end, including valence, and condenser bracket. I can now easily remove the radiator for replacement if I wanted... (I'm shocked I've gotten this far, actually!) I figure a modern radiator might offer a bit better cooling.

1) is there an aftermarket radiator out there that will fit?

2) what is the proper drain procedure to remove all coolant? Will the lower butterfly valve remove all the coolant form the system? Is there a drain point in the rear of the car--if so, do I even need to drain there?

3) I see how to separate condenser from radiator, so I'll be able to leave the A/C system alone! My radiator hoses and lines all look fine....

Any assistance would be appreciated...


Greg[/QUOTE]

 

I don't think there's a pressing need for one, that's why they're not around. The 308 cooling system is very efficient, it works well. Cars like the Pantera were under-engineered in this respect, so that's why its a requirement to fit an after-market rad... If not every Pantera has had it done by now.

I don't remember the name of the company, but as I said, one or two from here have had custom rad's made for a reasonable cost for their 308's. The company has a website, but I don't know the address... I'm sure somebody will post it, or maybe you can try to find it in the archives.

 

Ooops, looks like I quoted you before you made your changes!

You could drain only from the front, rad valve, but it takes longer. Get two big buckets at both drains and it'll dump twice as fast.

The pipe holds a couple of litres (quarts), so there'll be a bit in there.

 

(quote Peter)
I'm going through something similar - my oil cooler decided to spring a leak again, this time in another location, so that's it, I'm having a new one made (note: yes, I can get an oil-cooler from F of UK, but I want a cooler with different fittings on it as I'm changing the hoses to have standard, Aeroquip AN fittings. Hence the need for a cooler to be fabricated).

I'm having this oil cooler made by a local hot-rod shop that specialises in custom rads & coolers. They'll get back to me on Monday to see if they can do it and I'll relate my experience back here.



Greg, Sorry for the slight hijack, but Peter,

If you are going to have a new cooler and braided stainless lines made, why not install an oil thermostat. Most serious high performance cars use them to bring the oil up to temp quickly. This might be a big help up in Canada.

They are available at: http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm

Here is a photo of one with what look like AN16 fittings. It is about 4 inches square.

This project is on my list of things to do, but it is down there a bit.

Curious,
chris
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Greg,

Assuming that the tanks are in good condition, any competent radiator shop should be able to recore the radiator for you. There are high efficiency core available that will increase the cooling capacity while retaining the original tanks. As part of the recoring, they should clean and repaint the tanks, so it will come back looking brand new. Doing a recore eliminates all of the issues regarding fit. If you are pulling the radiator anyway, it's worth at least having it looked at to see if recore is an option.

Regards,
Steve

 

These guys will build you anything you want, state of the art.

And, they cost LESS than a factory replacement, which you'd probably have to buy USED.

So, as long as originality takes a back seat to function for you, try these guys.

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Radiators.htm

DM

 

Search the old & current fchat body of posts for 'radiator'. Lots of posts on re-cores, & replacements.

Unless you're going to be high speed tracking your car in seriously hot weather, the stock radiator in good shape is more than adequate as Peter said.

Before you spend several hundred $$ on a new radiator, I strongly suggest taking it to a radiator shop & having them look at it to see what it's internal condition is. The shop will know what to look for, & can flow test it. It may only need the core 'rodded' or otherwise cleaned out. If the core is in bad condition, I'd go with a high capacity re-core. In the unlikely event that the tanks or shot, a replacement would be indicated.

 

I have one of the above from Nick & Steve(the 4 liter one) and is great but for normal use I would go with the standard one. 50% percent lighter!

Paul

 

Nick Scianna at Nick's Forza Ferrari has a aluminum one that bolts right in

 

Hi Chris
Oil temp is not a problem for me. First off, the cooler duct on GT4's have a buit-in flap that you can open and close for driving in either warmer or colder weather. During the summer I have it open, when I drive in winter, I have it shut. I'm amazed that Ferrari thought up of something like this! It's very effective. Upon initial start-up, much like anybody else around here, I drive slowly for the first couple of miles unitl the needle jumps off the peg on the gauge, then I open it up...
I'll start up another thread when I've completed this project, but FYI, I'm using -10 sizes for my lines and fittings, with Aeroquip FC350 hose (max temp 300*F, which is more than capable for the Ferrari's temps and is higher than what most hoses are rated to. I've seen as high as 260*F on my gauge on one occasion doing a very fast climb up a very steep highway). I'll post pics when I'm done.

 

Nicks is 50% lighter you mean? Does it have extra coolant capacity to negate the weight loss?

 

I belive the 4 liter one (which I use) is slightly larger and the larger size "may" increase capacity by a quart or two...if that. The size is more about the type of core and fin design.
My system was completly dry (Tubes and Block) and I think I added about 22 quarts to fill but not 100% sure at this moment.

The 50% weight reduction was a dry weight comparission i did.

Paul

 

What fans are you putting in?

 

Hey Peter, you might think about -12. They're a better size for this app than -10.
Just a thought,
Philip

 

The smallest restriction in the oil circuit is the actual fitting for the oil filter and the bore through it measures slightly bigger than 3/8".

-10 hose and fittings are 1/2" so I figure I'll be fine.

 

Peter:
When I did the dry sump stuff (including replacing the cooler) we used -12 throughout. Pound told me anything less was too small and would impede the high (~400g/hr) flow of the oil pump. Norwood's Paterson advised using -12 too for the same reason. The diameter of the OEM cooler lines and barbs are close to -12.

Just a couple of additional data points.
Philip

 

Kinda drifting off topic a bit, but I would have to agree with Phillip in the size issue. While it would be certainly easier to run smaller lines, I would be concerned about the surface friction/viscosity issue in downsizing the hoses. Cold oil is not going to flow well thru the smaller ID,and being a daily driver, one would be expose to a possible low pressure at the bearings on every fire up. An added bonus in the use of larger lines is the thermal transfer is going to be better, due to slower fluid and an increase in surface (transfer) area JMO
Kermit

 

Thanks guys,

This kind-of throws me for a loop though, as first, I have all the fittings and hose already and secondly, to replace the banjos, I bought a set of 90* fittings that were in the only size avaliable (22 x 1.5mm to -10). I can't adapt any further, especially at the oil-filter base as there is precious little room between it and the cylinder head - as it is, this 90* fitting I have just fits.

...

 

You can refill it w/o running the engine.

1)BEFORE REFILLING/TOPPING OFF THE SYSTEM: Set the vent temp. levers to HOT, open the radiator bleed valve & put a little container under it to chatch coolant. This ensures you bleed the two heater cores out thru the radiator as you fill the system. If you don't do this, you'll have a couple of quarts of air in the system.

If the system is pretty full, let it bleed until the air & foam are gone & only coolant is coming out, then close the valve until step 3.

Remove the bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing (Early carb'd cars don't have one).

If you have a bleed screw, consider drilling it so it doesn't have to be completely removed to blead the thermostat housing. Drill a 3/32" hole into the side of the screw. Top of hole should be about 4 threads down from the head. Then drill an axial hold up the center of the screw until it intersects the 1st hole. Otherwise you're constantly rushing to get the screw started back into the thermostat housing while it's busy peeing coolant.

2) Remove the coolant tank cap,
2a.check tank level & fill if below spec

3) Bleed the radiator until no foam, only coolant flows.
3a.Check coolant tank level & fill if below spec
4) Bleed the thermostat until no foam, only coolant flows.
4a.check coolant tank level & fill if below spec

6. Repeat 3 & 4 until only coolant comes out of the bleed valves.

7. Start up the engine, let it run until warm.
(NOTE: The coolant tank cap is still OFF so the system won't pressurise.
8. Repeat steps 3-6.
9. Replace coolant tank cap.
10. Drive it until good & hot (should NOT overheat) while still keeping the temp levers on HOT.
11. Let it cool down & repeat steps 3-6.
12. Adj the temp levers to suit yourself.