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  #2221  
Old 06-22-2012, 12:37 PM
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Rebirthing S4 update

Hi all,

Checking in, gas tank reworked, hood frame straightened, shaping rear quarter panel.

Next step is completing the quarter panel which will be two pieces upper and a lower. Made test dies for the quarter panel creases. I will make the dies this Saturday out of steel.

Robert Huber
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1. Before pic of right gas tank.JPG (126.6 KB, 345 views)
File Type: jpg 2. Right and left gas tanks.jpg (85.3 KB, 345 views)
File Type: jpg 3. Repaired gas tank test fit.jpg (79.9 KB, 347 views)
File Type: jpg 4. Test pattern.JPG (76.8 KB, 351 views)
File Type: jpg 5. Getting close to the right pattern.JPG (85.9 KB, 351 views)
File Type: jpg 6. Straightened hood frame on car.JPG (73.8 KB, 353 views)
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  #2222  
Old 06-22-2012, 03:13 PM
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your work is humbling! well done.

whats an S4?

Gary
Espada
8394
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  #2223  
Old 06-22-2012, 03:43 PM
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Gary,

We REALLY don't want to go there!

But yeah, I just wish he was close to where I live.

Bob, have you thought about putting some drains in those cavities where the tanks sit?
That's where the rot begins.

Also, at the very rear of those cavities on the S2 cars at least they never actually sealed up that area from the outside. They left a huge gap and over time dust and moisture gets in from there. Mine had an inch of fine powdered mud deposited at the bottom in the front.

I coated my gas tanks inside with the Bill Hirsch kit. On the outside I removed the spotty rust areas, primed and then sprayed an aerosol can of truck bed liner on them.

It's tough and maybe it will prevent the tanks from sweating humidity? I believe this drips down to the bottom of those cavities does it's nasty thing.


That last picture looks like an Espada getting a quadruple bypass.
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  #2224  
Old 06-23-2012, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedoc View Post
your work is humbling! well done.

whats an S4?

Gary
Espada
8394
Hi Gary,

S4 (Unofficial) is a S3 with rubber bumpers

Robert
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  #2225  
Old 06-23-2012, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staatsof View Post
Gary,


Bob, have you thought about putting some drains in those cavities where the tanks sit?
That's where the rot begins.

Also, at the very rear of those cavities on the S2 cars at least they never actually sealed up that area from the outside. They left a huge gap and over time dust and moisture gets in from there. Mine had an inch of fine powdered mud deposited at the bottom in the front.

I coated my gas tanks inside with the Bill Hirsch kit. On the outside I removed the spotty rust areas, primed and then sprayed an aerosol can of truck bed liner on them.
Hi Bob,

Yes, good idea, I will add a drain line on each side. I will dip the tank and seal it. It was sealed once before.

Robert
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  #2226  
Old 06-24-2012, 01:09 AM
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It's funny, you look at that section from under the car with all of those drain hoses coming out of it and you're certain one of them just must be the drain ...
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  #2227  
Old 06-25-2012, 10:33 PM
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Espada g

What's the best way to check if your oil pressure gauge is working properly ?

Gary
Espada
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  #2228  
Old 06-26-2012, 06:23 AM
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What's the best way to check if your oil pressure gauge is working properly ?

Gary
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Buy a cheap mechanical one and tap into the oiling system where the oil pressure light switch is mounted. They typically come with a bunch of threaded adapters. I've never looked at that for the Lamborghini.
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  #2229  
Old 06-26-2012, 07:29 AM
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thanks I think I have a faulty guage as it fluctuates mid drive same revs no reason ? no diggerence in sound etc ?
thx bob

Gary
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  #2230  
Old 06-26-2012, 07:35 AM
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Probably just a loose wire or the sender itself. At least I think the Espada uses an electronic gauge?

Check the parts diagrams and you'll find where the sender is located.
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  #2231  
Old 06-26-2012, 03:33 PM
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changesd the sender last year as the light was on all the time but recently it was leaking where it goes in and was repaired so maybe a loose wire ?? i will check tonight.

thx

Gary
Espada
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  #2232  
Old 06-27-2012, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedoc View Post
changesd the sender last year as the light was on all the time but recently it was leaking where it goes in and was repaired so maybe a loose wire ?? i will check tonight.

thx

Gary
Espada
8394
A loose wire will cause the gauge to drop to zero as the sender is a potentiometer that progressively grounds the wire as the oil pressure increases (so if you bypass the sender and touch the block with the wire, the gauge should go to full assuming the wire is 12v hot whenever the car is switched to on, which it should be).

Be careful not to over tighten the posts on the sender as you can damage it internally by breaking it loose with too much torque. Just put on enough to snug down the ring.

Remember there are two wires, the Alerte (warning light) and Mano, which is pressure. Be sure you have the right ones connected to the right posts.
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  #2233  
Old 06-27-2012, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc023515 View Post
It was electrically operated, so far I know one S1 and five S3 with this option, also the sunroof on the Faena is the same style. Most of these cars where US delivered but also #9422 (a RHD) has a sunroof, which support the theory that this was done by the factory.

ILR report the sunroof as an option on the S3 but I’ve never seen it recorded as an option in the factory leaflets or road tests.

Beside there are some Espadas with moonroof but these all look after production modifications (with the exception of #7293 which was a one-off).
If anyone ever finds pictures of a sunroof car with the headliner removed, I'd love to see them. Kind of surprising it wasn't a more popular option for a luxury car at the time.
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  #2234  
Old 06-27-2012, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAEspada View Post
A loose wire will cause the gauge to drop to zero as the sender is a potentiometer that progressively grounds the wire as the oil pressure increases (so if you bypass the sender and touch the block with the wire, the gauge should go to full assuming the wire is 12v hot whenever the car is switched to on, which it should be).

Be careful not to over tighten the posts on the sender as you can damage it internally by breaking it loose with too much torque. Just put on enough to snug down the ring.

Remember there are two wires, the Alerte (warning light) and Mano, which is pressure. Be sure you have the right ones connected to the right posts.
Thank you so much

Gary
Espada
8394
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  #2235  
Old 06-27-2012, 10:01 PM
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Oh one more question which wire is which?

Gary
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  #2236  
Old 06-28-2012, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedoc View Post
Oh one more question which wire is which?

Gary
Espada
8394
If you mix them up then I think you'll see it on the gauge or light right away. One is a resistive sender (potentiometer, like a volume control) the other is just a switch that opens and closes at certain psi level.

You have a VOM? The one reading zero ohms. is the switch , if it isn't faulty.
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  #2237  
Old 06-28-2012, 08:52 AM
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For the love of Christ, Gary, youre making me nervous, getting down to the wire here......a prelude to "I can't bring the car"!
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  #2238  
Old 06-29-2012, 01:08 AM
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Rebirthing an Espada continued...

Quote:
Originally Posted by a57robert View Post
Hi all,

Checking in, gas tank reworked, hood frame straightened, shaping rear quarter panel.

Next step is completing the quarter panel which will be two pieces upper and a lower. Made test dies for the quarter panel creases. I will make the dies this Saturday out of steel.

Robert Huber
Hello Everyone,

Reporting in…the quarter panel is on its way to completion this weekend. The panel was made with two machines. No hammers and no leather bags were needed.
The English wheel was used to create the shape of all the curves on the panel. The bead roller was used for two of the three creases that the quarter panel has on this half of the quarter panel. I will be using the bead roller to produce a 90° radius edge at the wheelhouse tomorrow.
The upper crease where the side molding fits into also contains the change in angle on the quarter panel. The lower angle 5° then the actual crease then a 13° angle that had to be incorporated into the roller itself. I could not use the brake for the upper or lower angle due to the fact that the molding has a gentle curve towards the rear. I incorporated a witness line into the roller top and bottom. First I used it to line up the upper and lower rollers to perfectly center then to use it as a sight to follow the curved line on the panel.
The middle crease was formed by offsetting upper and lower rollers to the depth of the crease. I first put in a very light crease length of the fold distance. I follow that with heavier depths that as I moved the roller I released the tension on the upper roller for the taper.
The lower crease which is hardly noticeable unless you put your hand on it was formed with a narrow lower anvil on the English wheel.
Next operation will be to use the bead roller for the wheel well radius then trim the panel and include the exhaust outlet.


Robert Huber
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  #2239  
Old 06-29-2012, 01:43 AM
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Most impressive.

And you seem to be taking using original manufacturing techniques and materials to new heights by using a rusty piece of metal, just like Lamborghini would have! ... and yes I know that it will be sanded off, just joking .
Pete
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  #2240  
Old 06-29-2012, 02:00 AM
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Vintage looking rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk View Post
Most impressive.

And you seem to be taking using original manufacturing techniques and materials to new heights by using a rusty piece of metal, just like Lamborghini would have! ... and yes I know that it will be sanded off, just joking .
Pete
Hi Pete,

You are exactly right! It's pretty hard to keep things from rusting here. There must be some ocean breeze that happens to make it all the way up to me.

I'll give it a little bit of an acid wash and prep. I plan to spray an epoxy primer inside and out to give it a fighting chance.

Robert Huber
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