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  #1  
Old 06-21-2012, 03:03 AM
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F355 F1 Does not engage gears over 3rd!

I have a F355 F!1 that wont`t engage gears over 3rd. And most times it will not engage any gear at al! I can hear the actuator trying to engage put it does not hit any gears. The pump builds up pressure fine.

I have had an SDX connected to the car, and when I select gears with the SDX it engages al the gears without any problems. But when i try to gear with the paddels it does not work.

Have any of you experienced this problem before??
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  #2  
Old 06-21-2012, 06:00 AM
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F355 F1 Does not engage 3rd gear!

I have a F355 F1 that does not engage 3rd gear when driving, the car just misfires and stays in 2nd gear. It can also bee hard to get in gear when engine is on, and if I can get it 1st Iit wil not go in reverse.
When engine is off i can usaly select all gears, but some times it does not go in gear, it just stays in neutral. Revrse gear can also be hard to get it in.
When it does not go in gear I can hear the actuator working "buzzing" and some times it also hears like it misses the gear. It sounds like the pump is ok, it takes about 2-4 sec to charge.

The car has a new clutch, and is bleeded propaly. The problem was there before we changed the clutch.

Have any of you hade this problem before?
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  #3  
Old 06-21-2012, 06:06 AM
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F355 F1 Does not engage 3rd gear!

I have a F355 F1 that does not engage 3rd gear when driving, the car just misfires and stays in 2nd gear. It can also bee hard to get in gear when engine is on, and if I can get it 1st Iit wil not go in reverse.
When engine is off i can usaly select all gears, but some times it does not go in gear, it just stays in neutral. Revrse gear can also be hard to get it in.
When it does not go in gear I can hear the actuator working "buzzing" and some times it also hears like it misses the gear. It sounds like the pump is ok, it takes about 2-4 sec to charge.

The car has a new clutch, and is bleeded propaly. The problem was there before we changed the clutch.

Have any of you hade this problem before?
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  #4  
Old 06-21-2012, 10:27 AM
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Full Name: Mike Seals
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Andreas,

Please limit your questions to one thread at a time.

Mike
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  #5  
Old 06-21-2012, 07:17 PM
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Make sure your battery is fully charged. If you are 100% certain that the pump is good (are you?) then remember that it still is an electric motor. At idle, the alternators just aren't that good at charging the battery. They are probably geared down to account for the high redlines of the engine, and thus the faster speeds that the alternators will spin at. So at idle, the pump is pretty much running off the battery. Bad battery=bad F1 pump performance.

What I found after replacing my pump with a 360 pump was that even with a brand new, stronger than stock, pump that it could still sometimes shift poorly. Seemed erratic; sometimes poor performance, but 95% of the time, great performance. Very confusing. Took moving to a less congested area (where I no longer sit idling at red lights for very long) that I put the cause and effect together. Previously when I plugged in the trickle charger, took up to 5 hours to get the green light indicating full battery charge. New house: trickle charger turns green in 5 minutes. Not coincidentally, ever since moving to my new house, and thus driving with always fully-charged battery, car shifts like a dream 100% of the time. No more occasional reluctance to engage gears, or slow/harsh shifts.

So, again, are you sure that the pump is good? If you have recently replaced it, it probably is fine. If not, maybe it's not so good. Only way to know is to actually measure the pressure it makes, not just the time it takes to cycle off at startup. If the pump is good, though, check the state of the battery. Buy a trickle charger if you don't already have one.

Hope that helps,

John
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