The Ultimate "Sticky interior fix" experiment

[Extreme]

Someone before me had the sticky stuff removed and reinstalled the parts with no finish. Im thinking maybe I'll remove and refinish the parts with the kyrlon texture paint you used.
Looks fantastic.

[ndnbill]

thanks for the posts--they will be invaluable for anyone brave enough to do what you did and certainly makes me feel better about what I paid Robbie. Not that I wasn't already satisfied with Stickynomore. To the contrary the work was perfect. It is just that I would have gone completely nuts trying to do what you did and what it cost me to have Robbie do was money well spent.
Hear's to you

[jevs]

Originally Posted by Extreme

Someone before me had the sticky stuff removed and reinstalled the parts with no finish. Im thinking maybe I'll remove and refinish the parts with the kyrlon texture paint you used.
Looks fantastic.

In my opinion, different parts in the car need different things. Some parts I left raw, and they look great (vents). Some parts need to be stripped, but only of the sticky and leave the base primer (switches). Some switches the primer or base coat (whatever you choose to call it will be weak and these need to be stripped and refinished completely. The metal parts, the column parts, the switch surrounds all need to be stripped and go through refinishing. Metal parts will need etching primer, plastic parts will need one of two adhesion promoters depending on the type of plastic.

You can see my posts, process, and finished results here:

Sticky parts - what coating when redoing?

Take a look at my switches. One switch was replaced not too long ago and moulded in black rather than gray and possibly a newer type of factory finish. It was still tough as nails and I tested some chems on it and there was no need to do anything to it. A couple switches I stripped completely, scuffed, applied ashesion promoter and coated with the SEM honda bumper coat (same as color coats, but a better match on finish than their other choices). Most of the switches, I just cleaned the sticky off with alcohol and the base coat (the coat applied before the sticky coat at the manufacturer), was fine and no further action was needed. Some people think they have these parts stripped when they get to the black, but really they are just to the base coat. All of my switches except the one that had been replaced are actually molded in grey.

Anyway, look at the pictures of my switches and they all look the same even though they are done differently. If you can get away with just q-tipping the sticky off with alcohol and have a strong base coat, then you are done. Easy. Vents, strip them and leave them if the plastic is not sun burnt. The rest of the parts need refinishing. Of course each car will be in different conditions, this was my experience.

Of course sending them off is a great option if your lazy You will get great looking parts back and it will be less work. This does take time and Robbie is getting what he should for the work. I would never do this for someone else, but for me I could never pay to do what I can do myself. It's the only way I get ahead and keep my money to even afford a Ferrari

[treedee3d]

I am insanely anal when it comes to getting stuff to look consistent so I could not imagine using different finishes. I had to have all the plastic look the same and I had to have the finish match the hvac replacement panel.

My experimentation with the Sem primers and adhesion promoters did not work well with the Krylon so I just made sure everything was clean, dry and scuffed so the paint would stick. Everything I painted was plastic except for the ashtray cover.

I think the stuff looks great and I need to take better pictures because it looks way "over-textured" on the posted pics but looks superb when looking at it directly.

For the switches, I was too scared to take them apart so cleaning them with the q-tip was the best bet and refinishing them with clear coat was easy and made them all look new and can be reapplied.

It would be interesting to see how my parts, Jevs and Full_garage holds up over the summer heat and perhaps revive this post with our durability results in order to help other diy guys who want to do this job on their car.

[dahveedem]

I cleaned up my ashtray with dot 3/4 fluid. Amazing.

Here is interesting tidbit from my side.

I cleaned up my parts. Painted them with plastidip. Then went over that with Rustoleum texture. Looks like treedee.

Now on the ashtray - cleaned with dot 3/4. Painted with rustoleum texture first, then with plasticity.

Interestingly, much smoother finish. anyone have HD pics of stickynomore sorted vents on a 348?

I will for sure send my vents to SNM, but if I can get my flats close to SNM I can save some cash.

Mobilized reply by David

[UConn Husky]

First off, great contribution Fab! excellent detail and pics for others to tackle it themselves. Personally I liked the Plasti dip for a more OEM finish, after 4 yrs it's lasting perfect on everything but the driver side door handle. No biggie, I'll respray it like new

And have to say, it is a lengthy dirty job, so if you're not inclined to tackle it Robbie at stickynomore.com is an expert with great customer service.

[dahveedem]

Question... I have a friend of mine questioning if the brake fluid will do any harm.

He said that the new paint may not adhere to the plastic as it stays in the pores and will eat away at the paint over time.

I would guess the windex, the alcohol etc after the brake fluid would take care of any residue brake fluid.

Thoughts?

David

[285ferrari]

Originally Posted by dahveedem

Question... I have a friend of mine questioning if the brake fluid will do any harm.

He said that the new paint may not adhere to the plastic as it stays in the pores and will eat away at the paint over time.

I would guess the windex, the alcohol etc after the brake fluid would take care of any residue brake fluid.

Thoughts?

David

Not sure about the parts, but be careful with it exposed to your skin too long.

http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...nds&id=6009001

[SoCal1]

Originally Posted by 285ferrari

Not sure about the parts, but be careful with it exposed to your skin too long.

http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...nds&id=6009001

I'm an old car car, if I dont dip my hand in lacquer thinner once a month I feel neglected LOL




Serious like he said please wear gloves, there is some nasty isocyanates ready to attack

[dahveedem]

I can tell you easy off Burns the heck out of you. I have 5 Burns on my legs that were pretty deep.

I thought to myself as I was sitting on the garage floor looking at it (easy off) work on my plastic parts, Hmmm my legs are tingling. But I didn't see any overspray. Well it was there.

Mobilized reply by David

[285ferrari]

Originally Posted by dahveedem

I can tell you easy off Burns the heck out of you. I have 5 Burns on my legs that were pretty deep.

I thought to myself as I was sitting on the garage floor looking at it (easy off) work on my plastic parts, Hmmm my legs are tingling. But I didn't see any overspray. Well it was there.

Mobilized reply by David

Yes, I have heard the same thing about Easy Off. If that stuff eats burnt oven residue I imagine it would eat skin also....

[treedee3d]

Originally Posted by dahveedem

Question... I have a friend of mine questioning if the brake fluid will do any harm.

He said that the new paint may not adhere to the plastic as it stays in the pores and will eat away at the paint over time.

I would guess the windex, the alcohol etc after the brake fluid would take care of any residue brake fluid.

Thoughts?

David

Not an issue at all...once you use windex and rinse the parts properly it's gone. I don't think plastic has any pores anyway???

As for the easy off, it's best to use those yellow dishwashing gloves that go up your forearm and wear long pants.

[treedee3d]

I can say the parts are holding up very well and the car has seen many hot sunny days with the top down so I still strongly reccomend this method to anyone wanting to tackle their sticky interior...

[Rvhpno]

So without taking the parts off (window switches, gas, trunk switch) what is the best way to clean them, without messing up the switches? thanks in advance...

[James-NZ]

Originally Posted by treedee3d

Not an issue at all...once you use windex and rinse the parts properly it's gone. I don't think plastic has any pores anyway???

As for the easy off, it's best to use those yellow dishwashing gloves that go up your forearm and wear long pants.

Excellent thread and photos, great work and the board is a better place for it. Thanks for sharing.

Brake fluid is not a product that is nesessary in this process and the long term effect it could (IMO will) have on the paint and parts is to much of a risk. It is more than likely going to attack the surface even if you have carefully rinsed and prepared the item prior to painting.
Easy off oven cleaner does the trick very well and is water soluble so can be rinsed away. No need to subject the parts to brake fluid.

Great thread and photos. Congrats on having a great looking interior.

[treedee3d]

Originally Posted by James-NZ

Excellent thread and photos, great work and the board is a better place for it. Thanks for sharing.

Brake fluid is not a product that is nesessary in this process and the long term effect it could (IMO will) have on the paint and parts is to much of a risk. It is more than likely going to attack the surface even if you have carefully rinsed and prepared the item prior to painting.
Easy off oven cleaner does the trick very well and is water soluble so can be rinsed away. No need to subject the parts to brake fluid.

Great thread and photos. Congrats on having a great looking interior.

Originally Posted by Rvhpno

So without taking the parts off (window switches, gas, trunk switch) what is the best way to clean them, without messing up the switches? thanks in advance...

Brake fluid makes the process easier and comes off completely and easily prior to painting by spraying a last spray of easy off and windex and the rinsing under hot water and letting the part dry overnight.

As for the process, I don't reccomend even attempting to do this without taking the parts out of the car. The switches can be done without disassembling them but it takes more than 1 hour for each one since you have to do everything by q-tip and avoid the marking or it will erase. I reccomend sending the switches to stickynomore even if you are doing the other parts yourself.

Letting the easy off work overnight also worked well for me on some of the parts.

[285ferrari]

Originally Posted by Rvhpno

So without taking the parts off (window switches, gas, trunk switch) what is the best way to clean them, without messing up the switches? thanks in advance...

Highly suggest you remove all parts BEFORE attempting to put anything on them. Leaving the parts in will lead to chemicals inside your car, down in between crevices, on leather, etc... A huge mess....

[CLIVE77]

Some of my black bits are starting to turn sticky after 20 years, but I want to put my car back into the UK Ferrari Owners Club Concours and I need to get a true OEM finish. Does anyone know who did the original coating for Ferrari? If not, is Plasti Dip the only solution and is it really like an OEM finish? There seems little point in even trying to find original 'new' bits in a Ferrari box as even if they exist, they will probably turn sticky next Year! Any pointers would be gratefully received.

[treedee3d]

Originally Posted by CLIVE77

Some of my black bits are starting to turn sticky after 20 years, but I want to put my car back into the UK Ferrari Owners Club Concours and I need to get a true OEM finish. Does anyone know who did the original coating for Ferrari? If not, is Plasti Dip the only solution and is it really like an OEM finish? There seems little point in even trying to find original 'new' bits in a Ferrari box as even if they exist, they will probably turn sticky next Year! Any pointers would be gratefully received.

Definetly getting new parts from Ferrari is a temporary fix as it will happen again.

I know that Stickynomore does a great job but I'm not sure if they have their own finish or if they actually replicate the oem look.

If it's absolutely something you want to do yourself, then the plasti-dip is the closest to the OEM. However, make sure you prep and sand the parts properly and make sure to use several light coats with drying time in between each one otherwise it can be prone to peeling.

[wax]

The best surface to experiment with trial and error or practice your skills on is a nasty old VHS shell, be it labeled or perhaps more importantly, silkscreened.

The formulation utilizing a host of cleaners I've seen is wrong.

That's all I'm sayin'.