308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread! - Page 85

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1681** 03-04-2012, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert308

Chris, aren't you going to clean up all the old wiring like for the digiboxes and for the "slow down" lights etc. I have a US version GTSi and it's scary all this extra wiring like in the passenger footwell behind the panel. I think I only leave from the fuse box to the back of the car, the harness for the taillights, fuel level sensor and for the fuelpump and scratchbuild a new loom for the ecu like switched power.

Bert, if i was talented like you, i might have considered it.

I have spent a few nights trying to get figure out the wiring from the OEM to the New harness. Still need to find where i should tap into the OEM harness.

Nick Forza and Scott Mcgehee have given me some answers to some of my questions.

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1682** 03-04-2012, 10:18 PM

Can someone tell me what the diference is betwen these two parts?

#32 says "oil presure sending unit" This one i'm assuming is for one of the gauges in the dash?

#37 justs says "switch"

**John M** · #**1683** 03-04-2012, 11:00 PM

37 is probably the red light in the oil pressure gauge that illuminates when the pressure is like below 8 PSI.....aka the idiot light.

32 generates the actual gauge pressure readout.

Best Regards,
John M

**Crowndog** · #**1684** 03-04-2012, 11:07 PM

(#37) That is correct and it is one of those circuits that sends ground to the red warning dot light in the pressure gauge housing. This is significant if you are going to replace the bulb with an LED. The polarity is reverse and you will need a bipolar LED.

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1685** 03-05-2012, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crowndog

(#37) That is correct and it is one of those circuits that sends ground to the red warning dot light in the pressure gauge housing. This is significant if you are going to replace the bulb with an LED. The polarity is reverse and you will need a bipolar LED.

Quote:

Originally Posted by John M

37 is probably the red light in the oil pressure gauge that illuminates when the pressure is like below 8 PSI.....aka the idiot light.

32 generates the actual gauge pressure readout.

Best Regards,
John M

Thanks for the info guys.

P2164 · #**1686** 03-05-2012, 03:53 PM

Just ground each wire with the key on and watch the gauge, you'll figure which one goes to which sender easy.

**jim400i** · #**1687** 03-13-2012, 12:07 PM

Chris,

I saw this Norwood rear deck modification in the TR forum and thought of your project. It is for a Testarosssa but might address your needs or at least provide some ideas. I think it is pretty well done! Bottom picture is of another aftermarket rear deck window - not sure of the origin.

Best...Jim

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1688** 03-15-2012, 01:25 PM

Thanks Jimmy.

I had thought about doing something like that too. Here's a photoshop a friend did for me.

**jim400i** · #**1689** 03-15-2012, 02:45 PM

I wonder if the dimensions work...

**snj5** · #**1690** 03-16-2012, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pizzaman Chris

Thanks Jimmy.

I had thought about doing something like that too. Here's a photoshop a friend did for me.

I really really like what you have now, even more than the clear, but you find you might do well to raise it about 0.5" more.
Really well done design and execution.

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1691** 03-19-2012, 05:03 PM

Back with updates.

I'm going to hook up the main harness cable and alternator cable up to the new gear reduction starter so i can test some connectors. It looks straight forward from the pictures I got. Green/yellow stripe connectors plug up to each other. White female plug from main harness goes to female plug in starter. The three oring type of connectors from alternator and main harness go to that big nut on the starter.

The direction say something about "hooking up a jumper" to keep it original. Or something to that nature.

Anybody know anything about that?

Steve (fasterisbetter)?
Paul (pad)?
Bueller???

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1692** 03-19-2012, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snj5

I really really like what you have now, even more than the clear, but you find you might do well to raise it about 0.5" more.
Really well done design and execution.

Thank you Russ.

It's getting there.

**FasterIsBetter** · #**1693** 03-20-2012, 04:12 PM

One of the problems with the installation, depending on the car, can be the length of the leads, especially the big, thick, white hot lead from the battery. When I did mine, I had to struggle to get that big wire to reach the starter. It was a stretch, and barely got it to work. In order to preserve the "original" wires, if they are not long enough, you have to find some way to make them reach.

Some people made up a "jumper" cable to connect to that big wire, to reach the starter without worrying about stretching it. Also, I believe the wire that goes to the solenoid may, in some cases, be a bit short also, and might need a jumper to reach comfortably.

If you make up a jumper, make sure that it is the same or bigger than the wire you are extending (e.g., if the existing wire is a 14 ga., use a 12 ga. wire for the jumper). And make sure that the wires are securely connected to the jumper, and any connections are properly insulated, to avoid shorting out. The preferred method, of course, would be to shrink wrap the connections rather than wrapping them with electrical tape, as over time the tape will come loose from all the heat down there.

Hope that helps.

p.s. The way the adapter plate fits on the starter, you can actually rotate the starter by unbolting it from the plate and orient it for easier access and possibly better reach with the wires.

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1694** 03-21-2012, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FasterIsBetter

One of the problems with the installation, depending on the car, can be the length of the leads, especially the big, thick, white hot lead from the battery. When I did mine, I had to struggle to get that big wire to reach the starter. It was a stretch, and barely got it to work. In order to preserve the "original" wires, if they are not long enough, you have to find some way to make them reach.

Some people made up a "jumper" cable to connect to that big wire, to reach the starter without worrying about stretching it. Also, I believe the wire that goes to the solenoid may, in some cases, be a bit short also, and might need a jumper to reach comfortably.

If you make up a jumper, make sure that it is the same or bigger than the wire you are extending (e.g., if the existing wire is a 14 ga., use a 12 ga. wire for the jumper). And make sure that the wires are securely connected to the jumper, and any connections are properly insulated, to avoid shorting out. The preferred method, of course, would be to shrink wrap the connections rather than wrapping them with electrical tape, as over time the tape will come loose from all the heat down there.

Hope that helps.

p.s. The way the adapter plate fits on the starter, you can actually rotate the starter by unbolting it from the plate and orient it for easier access and possibly better reach with the wires.

Thanks Steve.

I think I have enough slack to connect them. If not, I'm going unbolt and rotate it like you mentioned.

The saga continues.......

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1695** 03-25-2012, 07:26 PM

Here are the updates for today.

It's been a while but i actually had a visitor come over today. The V man as we know him around these parts but you guys know as Verell stopped by. It was nice to see him.

We chatted for a while. He gave me a few pointers on a few things.

So I have the oil sender, oil pressure and water temp wires figured out. What i wanted to do is make new male ends on those and plug them into the OEM harness plug. I picked up the smallest male connectors but they are still too large to plug in.

Verell told me to check out this Co. called Digi Key http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk....z_header=link. They should have what i need.

I just need to find out what that male part is called so i can find it. (hint hint)

**Crowndog** · #**1696** 03-25-2012, 08:16 PM

Chris, I believe what you are looking for are called AMP Mate-N-Lock connectors. Also bought by TYCO
The pins come for different gauge wire, the part #s are:
Pins/male
Amp Part # 350547-1 20-14gauge brass/tin connector 1-480708-0 nylon housing 12 position
350547 -2 " " brass/gold
350547 -7 " " brass/select gold

350550-1 " " brass/tin socket/female

If you need the nylon housings they are available also.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...0547&x=17&y=21

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...08-0&x=16&y=15

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...09-0&x=12&y=16

They also have a series 2 part#s 770252-1 etc for pins the connectors 770022-1 12 postion connector

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1697** 03-25-2012, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crowndog

Chris, I believe what you are looking for are called AMP Mate-N-Lock connectors. Also bought by TYCO
The pins come for different gauge wire, the part #s are:
Pins/male
Amp Part # 350547-1 20-14gauge brass/tin connector 1-480708-0 nylon housing 12 position
350547 -2 " " brass/gold
350547 -7 " " brass/select gold

350550-1 " " brass/tin socket/female

If you need the nylon housings they are available also.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...0547&x=17&y=21

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...08-0&x=16&y=15

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...09-0&x=12&y=16

They also have a series 2 part#s 770252-1 etc for pins the connectors 770022-1 12 postion connector

Man, you're good. Thanks Rob!

**Crowndog** · #**1698** 03-25-2012, 08:45 PM

(Scrounger) strikes again. You lucked out I practically live in that catalog.

**Pizzaman Chris** · #**1699** 03-26-2012, 08:13 AM

I hooked up the clutch cable and swift shaft bolt just to get it out of the way. Looked simple enough.

I couldn't find any pictures but i think i hooked it up right.

Thoughts?

carnutdallas · #**1700** 03-26-2012, 08:23 AM

Been following this thread, for a long, long time. Thank you! Radio Shack of all places has some build your own AMP plug kits and I have had good luck with them. They offer the "blocks" as well as the "male" portion in many configurations as well as some you can piece together. Worth a shot to run over to the nearest shack and check it out, otherwise it is mail order. Looking forward to the day you drive it again!